A New Breakfast Spot in Town -- 'Designed in Tokyo, Made in Princeton'

Princeton, NJ -- I was talking to my actuarial writer friend Peter, whom I speak to on Tuesdays. He lives in California and we’ve been friends since we were 13. Peter isn’t exactly a culinary gourmet, so when I told him I was headed over to review a new Japanese restaurant that serves breakfast his response was “Sushi for breakfast -- yuk!”

I must say I too was surprised when I saw J.S. Foodies Tokyo at 14 South Tulane advertising breakfast. I just didn’t equate the two ideas, Japanese food and breakfast. Man was I wrong.

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As I headed over to J.S. Foodies from my house on Madison Street I went down Spring Street and then to Tulane, I was thinking how thrilled I felt  to live in a town where just around the corner was not only a Japanese restaurant serving breakfast but it was next door to a Haitian baker, an Italian market, D’Angelos, and the Pastry Room on Spring street, run by a woman from Kazakhstan. I’ve always relished the idea of living in Europe or Asia, so Princeton’s international feeling is quite appealing to me.

The small sunshine-filled restaurant had a light and airy feel -- very simple with clean pine tables and white tile. Standing behind the counter were three lady cooks, with their white chef’s jackets and black pants. Behind them on the white subway tile wall was written in black letters “Designed in Tokyo, made in Princeton.”

I liked that message. They were here to share their ideas but those ideas were their own. Maybe I was overthinking that one, but it worked for me nonetheless.

These women in chef’s coats were preparing and cooking the signature pancakes called Kiseki Pancakes, a souffle-like pancake very light like a souffle, and a bit larger but the same thickness as a crumpet or a biscuit.

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The waitresses wore orange T-shirts and jeans and black hats, clearly trying to appeal to the Princeton University colors.

On this Tuesday at noon, the place was packed. I was impressed. I wandered from table to table and took some pictures of peoples' foods, so I could get a sampling of how the food looked in its presentation. As I was snapping photos, I asked what they thought of the food? One group of women from Peru said that it was their second time, and that they loved that it wasn’t too sweet. Another set of Japanese mothers with their kids were there for the first time, and were very happy. This is definitely a “kid-friendly place” as the 4 and 5-year-olds were busy quietly eating their pancakes as well.

I asked the manager if I could sample a few items. She went downstairs to the kitchen and next thing I knew I had five different plates in front of me. The first one I tasted was the Matcha pancake. I’m not a big fan of Matcha tea, but I must say the intense tea flavor whipped with heavy cream was really tasty. They paired that with regular whipped cream, next to a red bean paste that was a wonderful contrast and lightened up by its whipped cream neighbor.  I liked it.

There were these green crunchy Matcha chocolates the size of peas sprinkled on top, and all of this deliciousness sat on the infamous Kiseki pancake. The way this is made, the manager explained, is egg yolks and sugar mixed separately and added to whipped egg whites with a little flour. This mixture is poured onto a Japanese grill that is extra thick and cooked for 5 minutes. Then they take an ice cream scoop of the same mixture and plop it on top and then the pancake is flipped. It's cooked again for another 5 to 10 minutes until it's done.

The whole process takes 30 minutes or more. Because of the grill size they can only make six at a time. The manager made sure that I would promise to mention that this is a “Soft Opening” and what that means is they need to work out this problem. Apparently too many people love the Kiseki pancakes and come there to try them. So, despite the notes everywhere informing them that there could be a 30-minute wait, they don’t read that and they have complained. She says they need to come during the week, at least for now until they get another large Japanese grill and can make more than six at a time.

I also tried the Eggs Benedict with smoked salmon. The salmon was fresh and served with lettuce and topped with a poached egg and hollandaise, a thin slice of red onion perfectly adding a bite to the smoked salmon. It sat on a pancake that was a thinner version, with the same ingredients, just cooked differently, which I think worked well with the lightness of the salmon and richness of the hollandaise.

The lemon ricotta pancakes were again the same ingredients but cooked like a standard pancake so they don’t take as long as the Kiseki pancakes do. The ricotta cream on top was light and lemony, and they sprinkled chopped almonds and candied lemon on top.

The pancake I loved the most was the strawberry pancake, a Kiseki version but had a filling inside almost as a surprise made with lemon zest, sugar, and yogurt. It was sprinkled with a strawberry dust, these little touches are what makes a menu for me.

I wasn’t thrilled with the chicken and waffles. I thought the fried chicken was a little dry, and the waffle could have been crispier, but the maple butter served with that dish was yummy -- maple syrup and cream whipped together.

The manager explained to me that the kitchen downstairs was the real kitchen and that this upstairs kitchen was more for show. I thought it was so much fun to watch the cooks pouring her batter and adding the scoop of more batter on top and then flipping the pancake and cooking it some more.

As I was getting ready to leave two young people wearing bright pink shirts and white pants walked up and stood there, also inspecting the chefs behind the counter. They bent their heads down and snapped pictures. They too wanted to watch how these delicious pancakes were made, so I guess the “show aspect” was working. Great marketing idea and just another way to draw in the crowds.

The prices on this menu are Princeton average. The Kiseki pancakes range from $16 to $18. The Eggs Benedict are $20. You can easily leave spending $25-30, but you will be happy and very satisfied and the experience is well worth it. Considering they have only been open since late March, this place is spot on. We have nothing like it in Princeton. Its food is well presented, with quality ingredients and a new and different experience and taste.

But please remember, this is J.S. Foodies soft opening. They are still working out all the kinks. So if you are going to want to try the fantastic Kiseki pancakes, take my warning and go during the week. If you can only go on the weekend, and you have to wait in line to get in, you must plan on waiting 30 to 40 minutes. So please try not to complain. Tanoshimu! (Enjoy!)

J.S. Foodies , 14 South Tulane Street. Open daily 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.

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