Esse Taco

This Williamsburg taqueria is from the people behind Cosme and CDMX destination restaurant Pujol , but unlike its fancier relatives, it’s standing room only: a cheerful red spot with sliding doors and music spilling out onto the street. Esse does have the same made-to-order heirloom corn tortillas though—they smell like a walk through a cornfield, and form a solid base. You can get all four taco varieties for $20, which is a decent deal, but just prioritize the rib eye (slightly charred and covered with a creamy orange salsa) or the smoky oyster mushroom if you’re in the area. The chicken and pork loin al pastor tasted comparatively flat on an early visit, but we’ll go back—especially for another round of the cornhusk meringue sundae: a brilliant transfer student from Cosme’s pastry department.