New pizza shop on Park Ave. brings fine dining approaches. Take a peek

It didn't take long for Kody Derhak to learn rule number one of running a pizza place in Rochester: you've gotta offer pepperoni.

Derhak owns Ardor Park Artisanal Pizza, a new restaurant at 117 Park Ave., a couple of blocks west of Goodman. After working at Oak Hill Country Club for the past seven years, most recently as executive sous chef, he brings a fine dining sensibility, including sourcing quality ingredients and paying attention to the details.

Derhak has unconventional ideas for what belongs on a pizza. His heritage is Ukrainian, which he initially intended to honor by incorporating Polish sausage made by Polska Chata in place of pepperoni. But after a few days in business he acquiesced to his customers and added cup-and-char pepperoni. Now, you can have both kielbasa and pepperoni — along with meatballs and bacon ― on the restaurant's carnivore pizza.

The restaurant is bright and airy, with brick walls that reflect the age of the 1890-era building. You can sit at one of several tables, or at a counter that looks out onto the quieter end of Park Avenue.

You can also sit at a counter that faces the kitchen, and can watch chefs prepare food and add logs to the wood-fired oven. (The atmosphere is not smoky at all.)

This chef's table-style setup is another influence from his time working at a private club, where he enjoyed getting to know the members and having them influence menus.

"I really wanted to bring that aspect as much as I could," he said. "That was the goal ― that we'd talk and interact with guests as much as possible."

What's on the menu at Ardor Park

Everything that's cooked at Ardor Park Artisanal Pizza is done in a wood fired oven.

The menu centers on pizzas made with a thin crust and baked to a slight char. You'll find a classic margarita, made with house mozzarella, provolone, fresh basil and extra virgin olive oil, as well as out-of-the-ordinary creations like the cacio e pepe, topped with house mozzarella, cracked pepper and semolina.

There's also an assortment of small plates suitable for sharing: roasted Brussels sprouts and leeks; a Caesar-type salad; stuffed garlic bread; spinach artichoke dip, served with toasted bread; charred bacon potato salad and wood fired meatballs.

Watch for seasonally influenced pizza and sandwich specials that let Derhak show off his culinary chops.

My recommendation? Take a break from pepperoni and try the kielbasa pizza. The thinly sliced meat is smokier and more garlicky than pepperoni, and the pizza is finished simply with mozzarella cheese, provolone and fresh herbs.

If you go

Ardor Park Artisanal Pizza is at 117 Park Ave. Parking is on the street.

It is open for lunch Thursday through Monday; for dinner daily; and for late-night on weekends. Its hours are 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday, Monday and Thursday; 5 to 10 p.m. Tuesday and Wednesday; and 11:30 a.m. to 1 a.m. Friday and Saturday. Order online at ardorpizza.com ; delivery is available through various apps. Call (585) 355-4923

Tracy Schuhmacher covers Rochester's food and drink scene. Notice something new in your neighborhood? Send tips to tracys@gannett.com .

This article originally appeared on Rochester Democrat and Chronicle: New pizza shop on Park Ave. brings fine dining approaches. Take a peek