This Desert Retreat Is The Best New Wellness Resort In the United States

A destination spa in the Arizona desert with complimentary fitness and spirituality classes, plant-based cuisine and a luxurious spa. The formula may sound familiar but CIVANA Wellness Resort and Spa is breaking all the rules. First of all, there are no rules or regimens here. Your cell phone isn't confiscated, you don't have to get up every morning at dawn for sunrise hikes and there's even alcohol (and coffee) on the menu.

Designed as a more accessible alternative to luxury wellness resorts like Miraval, Mii Amo and Canyon Ranch, CIVANA welcomes you as you are. Rather than a boot camp approach to wellness, CIVANA offers gentle nudges towards being present and making mindful decisions, but with zero judgment or pretension. The holistic approach to wellness here encompasses movement, spa, nourishment and discovery with room to grow, learn and better understand yourself. You can try something new and perhaps find yourself twirling gracefully upside down in aerial yoga, work up a sweat in TRX, or spend the day reading by the pool.

Every morning there is an intention ceremony in the rose garden to manifest your hopes for the day ahead, and each evening there's a sunset gratitude circle to acknowledge the gifts you have received and witnessed throughout the day. These short daily rituals bookend the day with bursts of heartfelt positivity, but even they aren't required.

“Maybe wellness for you is sitting by the pool and having a few drinks,” says co-founder Marc Skalla. “You can do as much or as little as you like.” Skalla and co-founder Adam Ross had been to destination spas like Miraval many times with their partners, and saw an opportunity in the market for a more inclusive approach to wellness. A wellness resort that is more affordable than some of its competitors and less rigid in its definition of wellness.

For example, the couple in the room next to mine had a (well-behaved) toddler with them – something that would be unfathomable at the adults-only destination spas I've visited. CIVANA doesn't have any kids programming, but kids aren't forbidden and the kitchen is happy to whip up kid-friendly items on the fly, although I'm told that children love the smashed avocado dip with za'atar flatbread as much as adults.

Meals at CIVANA are certainly a highlight – more delicious, artful and creative than the food at any other wellness resort I've been to in the United States. Chef Scott Winegard joined the team in August 2020 and he has pioneered plant-based cuisine in America, alongside Matthew Kenney at Plant Food + Wine and most recently at Farm Spirit in Portland, Oregon. Much of the menu is plant-based and gluten-free, but you can also order a filet mignon. Honestly though, between the mushroom lentil pâté, mole braised maitake mushrooms and fire-roasted cauliflower over fluffy herbed quinoa, the veggie dishes will intrigue carnivores too. After dinner my first night, I'm inspired to experiment with cooking more vegan dishes at home.

CIVANA was formerly the Carefree Resort & Conference Center, a sprawling mid-century modern playground built by Dick Van Dyke in the 1960s that hosted many of Hollywood's hottest stars over the decades. It took several years for CIVANA to complete their initial $50 million renovation, and there's still more to come. After closing during the pandemic, CIVANA reopened in September 2020 with an entirely new team and they're off to a fantastic start.

The spa is the centerpiece of any wellness resort and the two-story, 22,000-square-foot spa at CIVANA is no exception. Upon entering the, you'll notice symmetrical waterfalls and a medicine wheel of indigenous herbs and flowers outside, many of which were harvested to use in body wraps and skincare treatments pre-Covid. The current spa menu is pared down but will be back to utilizing local ingredients soon. Hydrotherapy is a cornerstone of the spa here, including Watsu massages in a private pool. Don't miss the Aqua Vitality Circuit featuring hot and cold wading pools, a thermal soaking pool, cold deluge shower and five-climate sauna, normally set to a low humdity, high heat desert atmosphere. During the pandemic, the Aqua Vitality Circuit is by appointment only, to ensure privacy for each group.

Now is actually a particularly good time to visit if you're comfortable traveling, especially if you're craving a warmer climate in the depth of winter. With occupancy limited due to Covid, the resort feels even more intimate and serene. Plus, it's easier to find space in classes and book last minute spa appointments.

Raise a glass to the brilliant fiery sunset over the desert mountains and Saguaro cacti and toast to life and all of its possibilities. Whether you're drinking acai berry hard kombucha, wine, sparkling water or a tea-infused low ABV cocktail, simply savor the moment and smile.