Taste Test: Beresovsky's brings a rare NYC-style deli to D.C.

New York-style deli Beresovsky's just opened in Navy Yard with nostalgic eats like Reubens, latkes, and egg creams.

Why it matters: D.C. is a strong sandwich town but we've suffered a classic deli drought — RIP Morty's , DGS , and others.

Dig in: Knead Hospitality ( Mi Vida , Succotash , etc.) is behind the sandwich counter just steps from Nationals Park , which adjoins their upscale diner Gatsby .

• Co-founder Jason Berry (O.G. Russian family name Beresovsky) is channeling his Jewish deli-loving roots for this venture, where most dishes are named after family members.

The vibe: Bright, modern, and fast-casual, despite the old-school eats. Counter staff take orders, but kiosks and pre-online ordering are built for speed.

• A dozen-odd stools line counters inside, but the patio is prime seating on a nice day.

What to try: Sandwiches on grilled marble rye stuffed with corned beef or pastrami, or my personal weakness, a tuna melt. Diners can "hold the bread" and opt for proteins à la carte or over salads.

• It's tempting to bookend a meal with crispy latkes to start with applesauce and sour cream, and a mint-chocolate milkshake for dessert. Spike it for extra fun.

Best bites: It's a tie between the classic corned beef Reuben with tangy kraut, or the "Papa Eddie." Think a braised brisket sub meets French dip au jus, plus creamy horseradish sauce. Get a side of slaw.

• To start, schmaltzy matzo ball soup packed with chicken.

What to skip: Noshes like baked perogies and knishes run bland. I love the bagel sandwich fillings like Ivy City lox, but the Bronx-imported bagels are chewy and not as satisfying as their local competition (sorry, New York).

Thought bubble: In the age of $18 sandwiches, Beresovsky's feels like a particularly good value with its $12 generously packed "Sammy's." Especially pre- or post-game with a cold beer on spendy Ballpark Row.

If you go: 1201 Half Street SE . Daily, 11am-8pm.