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Shine My Crown

Meet The Woman From DC Who’s Made History By Opening The First And Only Soul Food Restaurant In Mexico

By Gee NY,

11 days ago
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Tiara Darnell poses in the outdoor seating of her restaurant, Blaxicocina (R). Blaxicocina sits in the Navarte neighborhood. The mural was done by Oaxacan artist Lelo. Insert: One of Blaxicocina’s most popular fusion dishes, buffalo al pastor chicken wings, along with Old Bay seasoned french fries and Mexican aqua de. Image Credit: Héctor Alejandro Arzate / DCist/WAMU

Tiara Darnell, from Mitchellville, Maryland, has carved out a slice of home in the heart of Mexico City with the opening of Blaxicocina, marking the city’s first venture into soul food dining.

Blaxicocina, the brainchild of Darnell, stands as a beacon of cultural fusion, offering traditional soul food fare to both Black Americans yearning for a taste of home and curious locals eager to explore new culinary frontiers.

With offerings ranging from fried chicken to cornbread, carrot cake to sweet tea, Darnell’s menu boasts recipes passed down through generations, rooted in the vibrant culinary traditions of Washington, D.C., and Prince George’s County, Maryland.

However, Darnell’s journey to bring soul food to Mexico City has not been without its challenges.

The scarcity of certain ingredients, such as Old Bay seasoning and cornmeal, posed initial hurdles.

“Things like that are foundational to soul food as we Black Americans know it. Pretty much every recipe that’s on the menu. These are all things that I made with my mom,” she told DCist in 2023.

Undeterred, Darnell embarked on a quest to source authentic ingredients, collaborating with local farmers and artisans to recreate the flavors of home in the heart of Mexico.

From grinding their own corn for cornbread to cultivating collard greens with the help of a local farmer, Blaxicocina is a testament to Darnell’s unwavering commitment to authenticity and quality.

Despite the cultural and culinary differences between the United States and Mexico, Blaxicocina has found a warm reception among locals and expatriates alike.

Lesly Aldana, a patron of the restaurant, praised Blaxicocina for its innovative approach to soul food and commitment to sustainability, noting the restaurant’s unique blend of culture and environmental consciousness.

“I think this is a concept that did not exist in Mexico City. So I really like that combination when they mix part of the food, the culture, but they also look for more environmental, more ecological options to do it,” said Aldana.

Blaxicocina not only serves as a culinary destination but also as a hub for community and connection.

Drawing inspiration from the growing community of Black Americans in Mexico City, Darnell envisions Blaxicocina as more than just a restaurant but as a cultural institution—a place where people from diverse backgrounds can come together to celebrate food, culture, and community.

For Darnell, Blaxicocina represents more than just a business venture; it is a testament to resilience, creativity, and the enduring power of food to bring people together across borders.

As she continues to expand her menu and foster connections within the community, Darnell’s vision for Blaxicocina is poised to leave an indelible mark on Mexico City’s culinary landscape, one soulful dish at a time.

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