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CHICAGO READER

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Best 98-year-old dive bar founded by a world-famous burlesque star

A portrait of the late Trudy DeRing hangs above the jukebox at this cash-only Hermosa institution. Also known as “Radiana,” an internationally recognized burlesque star who performed at Madison Square Garden and the Copacabana, DeRing ran Gayety Village (as it was then called) with husband Ben Rynkus as a boîte and burlesque lounge. The couple founded it in 1928 and stayed aboard till the 1950s, and in 1979, Marine Corps veteran Warren Johnson took over, becoming the Levee’s third and current owner. Johnson keeps a scrapbook of DeRing’s photos and notices behind the brass-rail bar, which snakes through the front room and into the spacious game room in the back (a former bowling alley). Johnson can’t speak due to a stroke, but he still puts up kaleidoscopic holiday decorations and trims a tree outside to look like a beer bottle. Partner Diane Roels frequently lays out a spread for special occasions: a Chinese buffet for her birthday, corned beef and cabbage on St. Patrick’s Day, hot dogs for big games. IRL games abound, including darts, pool, ping-pong, and a MacGyvered free-throw basket with a tacked-up tarp to funnel the ball back to you. The Levee’s preserved-in-amber vibe is increasingly endangered among the city’s drinking establishments, and though it feels effortlessly welcoming, it can’t hurt to buy Johnson and Roels a shot if Trudy’s spirit moves you: Jamo Orange for him, Hpnotiq for her.