<body><div><img src="https://img.particlenews.com/image.php?type=thumbnail_580x000&amp;url=3Ezv8d_1GnBNCxL00" alt="https://img.particlenews.com/image.php?url=3Ezv8d_1GnBNCxL00" width="2000" height="1500" >From the stories making headlines to the restaurants, music and culture that make Denver one of a kind, Westword is there. Help us raise $50,000 by December 31 to keep independent local journalism going strong in 2027. For decades, Denver’s dim sum scene was small, primarily made up of a handful of restaurants located near Federal Boulevard in Southwest Denver. While some of those longtime go-tos remain, like Star Kitchen and the Empress Seafood Restaurant, there have also been some big shifts.In recent years, new dim sum and dumpling options have been opening all over the metro area, sparked in part by the popularity of the growing local chain Nana’s Dim Sum &amp; Dumplings, as well as newcomers like Ma’s Kitchen on Colfax and Harbor Dim Sum &amp; Cuisine.Now, the city’s appetite for Chinese dumplings and dim sum has reached Glendale, where Mulan Dim Sum &amp; Dumplings celebrated its grand opening on November 1. It’s located in the CitySet complex off Colorado Boulevard, in the former home of Jax Fish House, which shuttered nearly a year ago.<figure><img src="https://img.particlenews.com/image.php?type=thumbnail_580x000&amp;url=068UO2_1GnBNCxL00" alt="https://img.particlenews.com/image.php?url=068UO2_1GnBNCxL00" width="2016" height="1512" ><figcaption>Mulan celebrated its grand opening on Nov. 1. Antony Bruno</figcaption></figure>Notice of Collection | Terms | PrivacyBehind the project are Steve and Jessie Liu, longtime local restaurateurs who operate Hana Matsuri in the same complex and Land of Sushi in Centennial, as well as Grace Chen and her husband, chef Raymond Yang, who formerly ran a dim sum eatery of their own in the Seattle area before relocating to Denver several years ago.The bones of the space remain the same — even the former Jax raw bar sits empty, a reminder of past seafood feasts in the airy eatery. But the new decor, much of which was brought from China, according to general manager Fiona Chong, adds a splash of fresh energy to the main level dining room, which connects to a large, covered patio in front.There is certainly plenty of space for diners here, including the rooftop patio which, for now, will only be used for private events.<h2>What’s on the menu</h2><figure><img src="https://img.particlenews.com/image.php?type=thumbnail_580x000&amp;url=08HQ4J_1GnBNCxL00" alt="https://img.particlenews.com/image.php?url=08HQ4J_1GnBNCxL00" width="2000" height="1500" ><figcaption>The fried squid gets greasier as it sits so eat it quickly for the best crunch. Molly Martin</figcaption></figure>The restaurant inherited a large bar that’s loaded with taps, so the beverage menu is heavy on draft beers alongside a limited selection of wine and sake. There’s a full cocktail and mocktail lineup as well, though we stuck with a pot of jasmine tea, which the attentive staff continuously used to refresh our cups.Like most of the new generation of dim sum spots, Mulan does not offer cart service. (To experience that, you’ll have to visit Star Kitchen, the Empress or Harbor Dim Sum, which replaced Super Star Asian last year). -Instead, guests receive laminated menus and a dry erase marker to make selections from the two-page list of starters, dumplings, noodles and more.We started the meal with garlic pepper fried squid ($15), which arrived with a smaller shaker of chili powder to add a hit of spice, if desired. The thin slices were coated in a light batter that held onto a bit too much grease — an issue that led to squishy squid after a time, so these are best eaten quickly and while hot.<figure><img src="https://img.particlenews.com/image.php?type=thumbnail_580x000&amp;url=2BHumY_1GnBNCxL00" alt="https://img.particlenews.com/image.php?url=2BHumY_1GnBNCxL00" width="2000" height="1500" ><figcaption>The house fried beef noodles. Molly Martin</figcaption></figure>Next came the house fried beef noodles ($19). The tangle of thin, flat noodles, beef and onions in a sweet sauce was hearty and satisfying, but also very reminiscent of the Mongolia Beef Sliced Noodle Stir-Fry ($18) at nearby Noodles by Nina, where you can opt for hand-pulled or knife-cut noodles that are far superior to what Mulan is using. The pork and shrimp-filled wontons in chili sauce ($12 for six) were a standout bite, but again, the sauce leaned much more sweet than spicy despite the menu indicating that it’s one of the hotter options. If you are looking for more kick here, we did find that the chili oil on every table offers a nice numbing hit from Sichuan peppercorns. Fried shrimp balls (three for $7) are massive, requiring several bites to get through one, offering an excellent combination of crispy texture and bold shrimp flavor paired with another sweet sauce, this one served on the side. <figure><img src="https://img.particlenews.com/image.php?type=thumbnail_580x000&amp;url=1Blms5_1GnBNCxL00" alt="https://img.particlenews.com/image.php?url=1Blms5_1GnBNCxL00" width="2000" height="1500" ><figcaption>Mulan’s chicken feet come three to an order. Molly Martin</figcaption></figure>Chicken feet are a dim sum staple and the ones here ($9 for three pieces) are much larger and plumper than the ones we’re used to at Star Kitchen. “What kind of chicken did these come from!?” my dining companion asked as he lifted one from the bowl and dug in, declaring them “solid” with…you guessed it, a nice sweet sauce.From the list of dumplings, all available steamed or pan-fried, we opted for the pan-fried pork, shrimp and leek variety ($14 for six). Its accompanying sauce was more soy-heavy, offering a nice break from the sweet-on-sweet notes of the rest of the meal. <figure><img src="https://img.particlenews.com/image.php?type=thumbnail_580x000&amp;url=3i1EKK_1GnBNCxL00" alt="https://img.particlenews.com/image.php?url=3i1EKK_1GnBNCxL00" width="2000" height="1500" ><figcaption>Pork, shrimp and leek are one of six dumpling options on the menu at Mulan. Molly Martin</figcaption></figure>Everything came out fast and hot, with plenty of check-ins from the staff who clearly want each guest to have a good experience. The meal ended with a serving of three deep-fried custard mochi ($7). Despite the dessert bites confusedly arriving over a bed of shredded cabbage, they proved to be a fun final bite when cut in half to reveal a layer of purple taro surrounding a dollop of bright yellow custard, almost like a mochi-fied take on a Scotch egg.<figure><img src="https://img.particlenews.com/image.php?type=thumbnail_580x000&amp;url=4EwG6V_1GnBNCxL00" alt="https://img.particlenews.com/image.php?url=4EwG6V_1GnBNCxL00" width="2000" height="1500" ><figcaption>a peek inside Mulan’s deep fried custard mochi. Molly Martin</figcaption></figure><h2>Would we go back?</h2>Yes, eventually. Nearby competitors like Noodles by Nina and Ma’s Kitchen have already become go-tos for certain dishes, and the selection we tried so far at Mulan didn’t stand out enough to warrant a quick return.But there’s plenty more on the menu to explore, and a lot to like about the area’s newest dim sum option. This place has potential to become a neighborhood staple — the kind of restaurant you go to when you don’t want to stress about snagging a reservation and know it’s not gonna bomb in front of your new friends. In the age of influencers, it seems like everything needs to be the most-very-number-one-best-hidden-gem-to-ever-exist to get attention. But for most diners, a solid spot that’s close to home, dependable and brings something new to the neighborhood has plenty of appeal.This isn’t a case of style over substance. Or substance with no style. Instead, it’s a balanced approach at a spot that feels truly meant for diners and not for garnering views on Instagram. Mulan Dim Sum &amp; Dumplings is located at 650 Colorado Boulevard in Glendale and is open from 11a.m. to 3 p.m. and 4:30 p.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday and 11 a.m. to 10:30 p.m. Friday through Sunday. For more information, visit mulandimsum.com. </div></body>

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From the stories making headlines to the restaurants, music and culture that make Denver one of a kind, Westword is there. Help us raise $50,000 by December 31 to keep independent local journalism going strong in 2027. For decades, Denver’s dim sum scene was small, primarily made up of a...

First Look: Glendale now has a dim sum spot of its own

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From the stories making headlines to the restaurants, music and culture that make Denver one of a kind, Westword is there. Help us raise $50,000 by Decembe

First Look: Glendale now has a dim sum spot of its own

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