<body><div>Hotel restaurants are usually what the kids call a “liminal space,” somewhere meant for passing through. There’s food all day, and time means nothing.At <a href="https://theharborvale.com/">the Harborvale</a>, which opened July 1 inside the renovated and rebranded hotel of the same name along Burlington’s Battery Street, food is served from 6 a.m. to 11 p.m. But there’s at least one distinct time: sunset.While the ritual is getting earlier and earlier, the Harborvale team doesn’t miss a night. As the sun slips below the Adirondacks, staff gather at a brass bell hung next to the bar and give it a ring. Briefly, the otherwise bustling dining room goes quiet. Sometimes, people clap.The restaurant’s view of Lake Champlain is somewhat obscured by trees this time of year, but the bell is just one way that the 161-room hotel has strengthened its connection to its surroundings — and its quality. Modeled after a grand lake house, the Harborvale is now part of the Autograph Collection, Marriott Bonvoy’s category for independent, upscale, boutiquey hotels. As with <a href="https://hotelvt.com/">Hotel Vermont</a> next door on Cherry Street, it’s locally owned and operated by <a href="https://www.westporthospitality.com/">Westport Hospitality</a>.The property was previously one of Marriott’s more basic Courtyard hotels, though it offered more amenities than most, including its sorta-fancy restaurant, Bleu Northeast Kitchen. Bleu was no slouch. But dining at the Harborvale is a big step up. More than just good for a hotel, it’s one of the most interesting restaurants to open in Burlington this year. From the sunset bell to pork belly with electric-purple mustard artfully splattered on handmade ceramic plates, it’s a breath of fresh lake air.Doug Paine, executive chef of Westport Hospitality, has been with the company for more than 13 years. The Northeast Kingdom native joined before Hotel Vermont opened and has been the chef-in-charge at both Bleu and <a href="https://hotelvt.com/eat-drink/juniper/">Juniper Bar &amp; Restaurant</a>.Rather than a specific restaurant concept, the Harborvale’s menu is defined, broadly, “by nostalgia,” Paine said. Most dishes have a story, often a personal one. In putting those stories on a plate, he seems to be having more fun than ever.<figure><img src="https://img.particlenews.com/image.php?type=thumbnail_580x000&amp;url=1vecHk_1FBExapB00" alt="https://img.particlenews.com/image.php?url=1vecHk_1FBExapB00" width="1200" height="900" ><figcaption>Doug Paine tossing cornmeal-crusted calamari Daria Bishop</figcaption></figure>It helps that Paine, 49, has assembled an all-star opening team. Joining him on the line are sous chef Max Baker, previously of the Farmhouse Group; Lahi Ibrahim, former chef de cuisine at August First; and longtime Burlington-area chef <a href="https://www.sevendaysvt.com/food-drink/grilling-the-chef-guild-taverns-phillip-clayton-2975399/">Phil Clayton</a>, who’s back in the kitchen part time.There’s a lot on offer at the Harborvale: morning barista service, breakfast, brunch, light fare for lunch, afternoon snacks, dinner, a bar menu available late night and room service all the while. Later this month, the team will launch a chef’s tasting menu in the private dining room, which seats up to 14 people.I went for dinner at 7 p.m. on a Tuesday and was immediately shown to a table along the north wall, even though I was 15 minutes early for my reservation. (Roughly half of the restaurant’s 90 seats, including the bar area, are available for walk-ins). There’s no better place to do nothing than a hotel restaurant, and I was secretly pleased when my dining companion texted that she was still on her way. As I watched and eavesdropped a bit from my plush banquette, a host ushered in a couple, saying, “Welcome back to your table.” They’d been the night before. Elsewhere, my new-to-the-job but warm and enthusiastic server asked each guest, “Where are you traveling from?”Roughly half of the Harborvale’s customers are local, Paine estimated. The restaurant can track the breakdown based on who charges dinner to their rooms, though it’s not a flawless system.Feeling as if I were on vacation myself, I ordered a Seaside Vesper ($17), made with gin, vodka, Lillet Blanc and kombu. The promise of an umami kick from the dried seaweed drew me in, and I took my first sip as my friend sat down.“This tastes like swallowing the gentlest mouthful of seawater while swimming in the ocean,” I said, encouraging her to order one, too. She opted for a glass of wine. (The Seaside Vesper has since been swapped out for the Ruby Waves, a mezcal Negroni.)But the coastal cocktail helped us notice the Harborvale’s “light nautical” décor, as she put it. We decided it was Vermont-does-Maine — Noah Kahan’s Cape Elizabeth album, if you will.<figure><img src="https://img.particlenews.com/image.php?type=thumbnail_580x000&amp;url=2T5SzL_1FBExapB00" alt="https://img.particlenews.com/image.php?url=2T5SzL_1FBExapB00" width="1200" height="900" ><figcaption>A Maine lobster roll with caviar and Animal Farm butter, French fries and a Ruby Waves cocktail from the bar menu Daria Bishop</figcaption></figure>The mast net hung above the bar and driftwood accents had us craving seafood. <a href="https://www.sevendaysvt.com/food-drink/taste-test-bleu-northeast-seafood-2372837/">When Bleu opened</a> in 2014, fish was the focus; that shifted a bit <a href="https://www.sevendaysvt.com/food-drink/dormant-dining-for-some-restaurants-closing-for-the-winter-nurtures-long-term-survival-32239970/">in December 2020</a>, when it became Bleu Northeast Kitchen with a wider variety of dishes rooted in New England.The Harborvale has a similar approach. Paine doesn’t anticipate serving oysters regularly — he made an agreement with the hotel’s maintenance manager not to, because the sand that washes out as they clean the bivalves clogs the plumbing. But Paine’s mother’s side of the family is from Massachusetts’ South Coast, so he’s got a soft spot for seafood.We settled on cornmeal-crusted calamari ($17), enticed by a purée at the bottom of the dish — instead of dipping sauce — made with sweet corn at its sweetest <a href="https://www.sevendaysvt.com/food-drink/agriculture/pomykala-farm-in-grand-isle-grows-on-without-its-cofounder/">from Pomykala Farm</a>. While the calamari could have arrived slightly hotter, the dish was bright, not greasy.That’s an homage to Paine’s near-decade at the <a href="https://www.sevendaysvt.com/food-drink/foodnews/michaels-on-the-hill-in-waterbury-center-is-closed-and-for-sale/">now-closed Michael’s on the Hill</a> in Waterbury Center, where he developed a foundation in European cuisine. There, calamari was tossed with Champagne vinegar, diced tomato and red onion.“It was like a light salad,” he recalled. So is the Harborvale’s, thanks to the corn and lots of lightly pickled giardiniera, which played with the traditional New England fried calamari-banana pepper combo.We also ordered bread ($10), largely because it is served with butter from Shoreham’s much-lauded <a href="https://www.sevendaysvt.com/food-drink/acclaimed-addison-county-animal-farm-butter-business-changes-hands-35203433/">Animal Farm Creamery</a>. A staple on menus at the French Laundry and other top restaurants across the U.S., the butter’s limited production has made it hard to find here in Vermont.The Harborvale’s semolina loaf was a worthy vessel for the bright yellow slab of butter. It’s served as a whole demi baguette, without a bread knife — you break off pieces with your hands — in another move inspired by Michael’s on the Hill and by Emily Post, whose etiquette lessons played a big part in behind-the-scenes prep for the hotel’s staff.The Harborvale’s upscale touches aren’t stuffy, but they’re welcome. Lots of new restaurants are embracing nostalgia on their menus in 2026, as customers look for value and predictability. But most are doing it without a fine-dining spin, and the result, Paine thinks, is “a little too casual.” <figure><img src="https://img.particlenews.com/image.php?type=thumbnail_580x000&amp;url=4ar9fa_1FBExapB00" alt="https://img.particlenews.com/image.php?url=4ar9fa_1FBExapB00" width="1200" height="900" ><figcaption>Pork belly, snap peas and violet mustard at the Harborvale Daria Bishop</figcaption></figure>All the burgers and “classic American” dishes the trend has spurred are a little safe, too. That’s why Paine’s pork belly ($16) stands out. It tastes familiar — a classic German pork-and-mustard pairing with seasonal snap peas — but with a good dose of whimsy. Does the mustard need to be purple? No. Did it delight me? You bet. It reminded me, in the best way, of Heinz’s purple ketchup in the early 2000s.Violet mustard is a traditional French ingredient that’s hard to find now, Paine said. The Harborvale’s is made in house with Dijon, crème de violette liqueur and butterfly pea flower to amp up the color. The pork belly’s skin had a deeper sear on my friend’s first visit to the restaurant earlier this summer, she said, but it was still crisp on top and tender underneath. Her earlier reconnaissance decided our next dish, too: We had to order pasta. The hotel sits in what was once Burlington’s Little Italy — the historical marker is across the street — and Paine used both that and his own Italian heritage to put a few red-sauce-style options on the menu.Our ample pile of housemade bucatini with vodka sauce ($18) arrived twirled on a vintage china plate, its chintz a conscious departure from the modern Terrafirma Ceramics plates that everything else was served on. “It tastes like adult SpaghettiOs,” my friend said. She meant that as a compliment. We agreed that it was among the best pasta we’ve had in Burlington, and significantly cheaper than most.Unexpectedly, the dish was topped with grated Taliah, a clothbound sheep-milk cheddar from Fromagerie du Presbytère in Québec. Nearly half of the Harborvale’s cheeses come from north of the border, Paine said, and he deploys them where you’d usually see Parmesan or pecorino Romano.“For me, you don’t need imported ingredients from Italy to be Italian,” Paine explained. “Italian cuisine is about seasonality and quality, using the best ingredients you have where you are.”<figure><img src="https://img.particlenews.com/image.php?type=thumbnail_580x000&amp;url=4VKxnz_1FBExapB00" alt="https://img.particlenews.com/image.php?url=4VKxnz_1FBExapB00" width="1200" height="900" ><figcaption>Barista and bar lead Juliette Dill ringing the sunset bell Daria Bishop</figcaption></figure>That mindset gives Paine a lot of freedom and keeps the menu connected to the Harborvale’s main inspiration, Lake Champlain.Our entrée for the evening, a perfectly cooked duck breast ($29), came from a homework assignment for staff during the hotel’s brand development: Read a book with a “nostalgic feeling of adventure,” Paine said. He chose Walden by Henry David Thoreau.As the chef worked through Thoreau’s winding prose, his mind wandered to ducks flying around a pine tree-lined pond and the scent of dry, midsummer woods. “I was like, How am I connecting any of this to what we’re doing?” Paine recalled. His answer was to plate the duck on a hearty pine-nut purée scented with evergreen tips, an accompaniment that lands somewhere between sauce and mashed potatoes.Like the rest of the restaurant’s deeply considered dishes, it works with or without the story.The Harborvale, 25 Cherry St., Burlington, 802-864-4700, <a href="https://theharborvale.com/">theharborvale.com</a>The original print version of this article was headlined “More-Than-Safe Harbor | A hotel restaurant that could make waves opens in Burlington “</div></body>

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Hotel restaurants are usually what the kids call a “liminal space,” somewhere meant for passing through. There’s food all day, and time means nothing. At the Harborvale, which opened July 1 inside the renovated and rebranded hotel of the same name along Burlington’s Battery Street, food is served from 6 a.m. to 11 p.m. But there’s at least one distinct time: sunset.

First Bite: The Harborvale in Burlington Could Make Waves

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Hotel restaurants are usually what the kids call a “liminal space,” somewhere meant for passing through. There’s food all day, and time means nothing. At t

First Bite: The Harborvale in Burlington Could Make Waves

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