Everything basil

After three months of nurturing and coaxing the vegetable garden in my tiny backyard, I'm finally rewarded by a bounty of produce. Throughout the summer, I've been snipping and rooting basil sprigs. Now the progeny of my original basil plant has grown into a lush and verdant patch of a dozen plants. The days are getting shorter, the mornings are a little cooler, and this signals the shift in the efforts of my basil patch from growing leaves to producing seeds. When the leaves stop growing, basil becomes a bit bitter and fibrous. So to enjoy basil at its flavorful best, it's best to utilize it before the flowers appear. Snipping the flowering heads as soon as they emerge helps keep your plants lush.

This is the best time to make my two favorite basil-centric late summer dishes: Pesto alla Genovese and Ratatouille Provençal. Pesto alla Genovese is a classic Italian sauce made with crushed basil leaves, garlic, pine nuts, olive oil and grated cheese. Ratatouille Provençal is a traditional late summer vegetable stew, incorporating the mainstays of the late-season vegetable garden: tomatoes, eggplant, bell peppers, zucchini, summer squash and, of course, basil.

Basil doesn't like the cold. The leaves will turn black or brown when the temperatures dip into the 40s and it shouldn't be stored in the refrigerator. When basil is chopped or crushed and its cells are disrupted and exposed to oxygen, browning will occur. When freshly made, basil pesto is a lovely emerald green color, but that color eventually fades to an unappealing brown. This is due to oxidation reactions that occur when plant pigments are exposed to the air. Blanching is an effective way to destroy many of the decomposing enzymes that are responsible for this browning, and helps the pesto stay a vibrant green color. However, blanching reduces flavor and aroma, so I only bother blanching if I won't be using my basil pesto right away.

The procedure for blanching is to bring two quarts of water to a boil in a four-quart pot. Have an ice bath standing by with four cups of water and four cups of ice for rapid cooling. When the blanching water reaches a full rolling boil, dunk the basil into it, count to five, remove immediately and transfer to the ice water to stop the cooking and rapidly cool. Then drain and squeeze out the excess water. If I'm making pesto, I'll also blanch the garlic cloves to soften the garlic's harshness.

Whether you are blanching your basil or not, basil pesto always tastes better when made with a mortar and pestle. Food processors simply slice ingredients thinner and thinner, while the pounding and crushing motion of a pestle in a mortar leads to far more flavorful, aromatic oils being released for a noticeably tastier result. However, for large batches, using a mortar and pestle is time-consuming, and I'll sacrifice some flavor reduction for the convenience and efficiency of a food processor.

Basil pesto can be used to dress pasta or flavor soups. I like to make a big batch because it freezes quite well. The best way to do this is in ice cube trays and allow them to freeze overnight. The next day, pop out the cubes and transfer to a zipper-lock bag. The pesto can be frozen for up to six months.

Pesto alla Genovese basil pesto

Yields 2 cups

Ingredients:

2 cloves garlic, halved

¼ cup pine nuts, toasted in the oven on a baking sheet

2 cups basil leaves (no stems), rinsed and patted dry

½ cup extra virgin olive oil

½ cup freshly grated Parmesan or pecorino romano cheese

Salt and pepper, to taste

Preparation

With a mortar and pestle: crush the garlic with a 1/2 teaspoon of salt. When the garlic has reached a creamy texture, add the pine nuts and continue to crush. Add the basil leaves and crush in a circular motion. When smooth, add the cheese. Then add the olive oil in small increments, continuing to crush in a circular motion.

In a food processor or blender: Roughly puree the basil and nuts with a little oil. Transfer to a bowl, stir in the cheese, more oil and seasoning to taste.

Store in the refrigerator, tightly covered, until ready for use or freeze for later.

Ratatouille sauce Provençal

Serves 4 to 6; makes 2 quarts

This dish can be served either hot or at room temperature as a side dish, spread or garnish.

Ingredients:

1 medium or 2 small eggplants, cut into ½-inch dice

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

½ cup olive oil, divided, plus more as needed

3 medium yellow onions, cut into ½-inch dice

4 to 6 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

2 bell peppers (one red, one yellow), deseeded and cut into ½-inch dice

3 medium zucchini or yellow summer squash, cut into ½-inch dice

3 ripe medium tomatoes, cut into 1/2-inch dice or 1 ½ cups store-bought passata (Italian strained tomatoes)

1 herb bundle consisting of basil, thyme and parsley tied together with butcher's twine

Preparation

Toss the eggplant with a teaspoon of salt, and place in a colander or wire mesh strainer set over a bowl. Allow to drain for at least 20 minutes. Discard any liquid that collects in the bowl.

In a large skillet, heat 3 tablespoons of olive oil over medium-high heat until it shimmers. Dry the eggplant with paper towels, add to the skillet and cook over medium heat, stirring frequently, until soft and golden. Add more olive oil as needed if the skillet dries out while cooking eggplant. Remove the eggplant when done and transfer to a large pot.

Add more oil to the skillet and when shimmering, add the onion, season with salt and cook, stirring, until softened. Add the garlic and cook a few minutes more, being careful not to burn. Transfer onion and garlic to the pot with the eggplant.

Add bell pepper to the skillet, season with salt and cook, stirring, until softened, Transfer bell pepper to pot with the other vegetables.

Add the squash and cook, stirring, until softened. Transfer to the pot.

Set the pot of vegetables over medium heat and gently stir in the diced tomatoes or passata with a rubber spatula. Add the herb bundle, reduce the heat and let the flavors combine for 20 minutes.

Remove the herb bundle. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Stir in chopped basil and drizzle with a small amount of extra virgin olive oil.

Everything basil

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