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  • Axios Chicago

    Chicago's Next restaurant tributes chef Charlie Trotter

    By Monica EngJustin Kaufmann,

    2024-08-11

    Next restaurant in Fulton Market, dedicated to transporting diners to different eras, has featured takeovers like Paris: 1906 or a menu inspired by Julia Child.


    The intrigue: Chicagoans are well aware of Next's concepts, since it's been open for almost 15 years. But Next's next project is something close to home: The restaurant will pay homage to Chicago chef Charlie Trotter.

    Trotter, who trained Achatz, died in 2013 . His restaurant had closed a year earlier.

    • Bringing Trotter's back will give diners a taste and feel of how he shaped Chicago's now world-class dining scene.
    • It also coincides with the 2021 documentary on Trotter's life now available on Netflix .

    State of play: The idea of paying tribute to a Chicago restaurant got our eyes wide about the possibilities.

    Here are six restaurants we'd like to see Achatz and Kokonas do next:

    The Blackhawk

    https://img.particlenews.com/image.php?url=013EGV_0uuUpgyi00 The Blackhawk, circa 1967. Photo: Mirrorpix via Getty Images

    This iconic prime rib spot in the Loop opened in 1920 and closed in 1984. It featured food, dancing, big bands, themed rooms and live radio shows.

    • The main event was a gimmick called the "Spinning Salad" where salads were made tableside.
    • Owner Don Roth also had an outpost in Wheeling, which closed in 2009.

    The Great Gritzbe's Flying Food Show

    This was a Rich Melman spot that was popular in the mid-'70s. It was one of the first Lettuce Entertain You restaurants, and its top feature was having both a cheese bar and a dessert bar.

    • It was praised for its design, but it didn't last. The restaurant closed in the mid-'80s.

    Everest

    https://img.particlenews.com/image.php?url=1eIUuW_0uuUpgyi00
    Chefs Jean Joho (L) and Jose Andres appear at Vegas Uncork'd by Bon Appetit's Grand Tasting event at Caesars Palace in 2012 in Las Vegas. Photo: Ethan Miller/Getty Images for Vegas Uncork'd by Bon Appetit

    Chef Jean Joho is a Chicago treasure, helming restaurants like Brasserie Jo in River North and Everest in the Loop.

    • Everest was on the 40th floor of the Chicago Stock Exchange building, which would be fun to see Achatz and Kokonas replicate.

    Plus, the food, of course.

    Chez Paul

    The prestigious French restaurant on Rush Street opened in 1945 and stayed open for 50 years.

    • It pre-dated the great foodie rush that brought us restaurants like Charlie Trotter's, but the destination lives in Chicago's hearts forever as the inspiration for scenes in both "The Blues Brothers" and "Ferris Bueller's Day Off."

    Demon Dogs

    This is a fan favorite of Axios Chicago. The little hot dog stand under the Fullerton "L" station was owned by Peter Schivarelli, who among other things, managed the band Chicago.

    • He decorated his hot dog stand with band memorabilia and tied it together with DePaul Blue Demon logos.
    • It was a delight to eat a hot dog with fries tucked into the bun while the Red, Brown and Purple lines rumbled above you.

    Hoe Sai Gai

    https://img.particlenews.com/image.php?url=3hsPxg_0uuUpgyi00

    👋 Monica here: This request is kind of selfish, but I'd love for Next to recreate the Chinese-American menu of my family's famed Hoe Sai Gai next to Henrici's on Randolph near Dearborn.

    • From 1933 to 1962 it served chop suey and egg foo young alongside lobster Newberg and T-bone steaks with house-made pies and parkerhouse rolls.

    Here are other suggestions from Axios readers:

    Terry P.: "The Bakery with chef Louis Szathmary or Le Perroquet with chef Jovan Trboyevic would be cool, and also delicious to recreate."

    Chris A.: "Trader Vic's would be so much fun to revisit!"

    Amy P.: "My family's favorite Chicago restaurant was Adolph's on Rush Street. Best garlic bread anywhere!"

    Mark M.: "Any of several great German restaurants: Zum Deutschen Eck, the Golden Ox are the two most famous."

    • "My personal favorite was Heidelberger Fass on Lincoln Ave., where the restaurant scenes in "Groundhog Day" were filmed."
    • "Cafe Bohemia was famous for serving big game — bear steak, lion steak — the most politically incorrect place imaginable!"

    Bruce D.: "Next should also do Le Francais, Le Perroquet, and Spiaggia."

    Linda B.: "I would love to see the Black Angus recreated. I used to get a Shirley Temple cocktail and ribs when I went there with my grandparents.

    • "I have a funny story about Charlie Trotters. I went there with a guy on a first date. I couldn't believe he was taking me to such an expensive restaurant. It was great and we went out once more before I discovered he was married and used his wife's credit card to pay for the meal there."

    Sandy F.: "I would like to see them include Sages Restaurants. Gene Sage did a lot of 'firsts' in Chicago, he, along with Arnie Morton and Don Roth were featured as the 'Dons' of the restaurateurs in Chicago many years ago."

    Timothy P.: "The Bakery, Le Plume, Star Top Cafe."

    Roxanne H.: "I would love to see them do Biggs which was on Lincoln Avenue. We thought it was such a fancy spot to go on a big date. White table cloths and great food."

    Julia R.: "I would love to see a return of Don Roth's Blackhawk restaurant. The Blackhawk salad dressing was the best and you used to be able to purchase it bottled at the Jewel. I really miss that dressing!"

    Mimi K.: "A place called Fritzel's. I ate there with my parents as a kid. Great breads and grown up food."

    Mary K.: "Magic Pan, Lawrence of Oregano, Henrici's, Kon Tiki Ports."

    Neil B.: "Gordon, Star Top and Jackie's."

    Editor's note: This story has been updated to include suggestions from readers.

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    Chef Gipson
    08-11
    The Best in Chicago!!!
    View all comments
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