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Couture Spring 2023 Fashion Trend: Grand Gestures

By WWD Staff,


The grande dames of couture made some room this season for new blood to set up shop near the Vendôme and share their quirky, creative tastes.

Sohee Park , coming off a Milan debut, realized her dream of showcasing in Paris with a collection inspired by the changing of seasons. Among the highlights were her fuchsia bustier gown with jet-bead fringe and dip-waisted column skirt, which paired with a crop top, offered a fresh take on couture for stars like Noah Cyrus, who attended the show, remarked WWD’s Joelle Diderich.

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After two showcases in New York, designer Lùchen decided she might be better suited to the couture capital as well. The designer riffed on Ridley Scott’s “Blade Runner,” causing her to examine the modern mores of technology — social media in particular. While the looks may have been paraded far from view, WWD’s Lily Templeton was quick to note Lùchen’s knack for construction and sharp tailoring skills still came across.

Other guests invited to the calendar for the first time this spring included Moroccan designer Sofia Crociani, a former architect whose silhouettes were built from frameworks like the steel girders of buildings, and London-based Robert Wun whose “Fear” collection saw him confront his own with looks featuring wine spills, rain stains and broken heels.

Paris also got its first look at Gauruv Gupta, whose wide array of inspiration sources, which included the concept of zero gravity, lead him to create a series of sculptural show stoppers that swirled around the models’ bodies.

Elsewhere, the likes Pierpaolo Piccioli and Daniel Roseberry showed equally bold looks for their respective houses.

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