Syracuse, N.Y. — As I sat eating my dinner at Laci’s, a quote from the opening scene of “10 Things I Hate About You” popped into my head: “I know you can be overwhelmed, and you can be underwhelmed, but can you ever just be whelmed?”
That’s exactly how I felt about my dining experience.
But let’s take a step back. Laci’s Tapas had been a beloved local restaurant for several years before closing in December 2020. Much to the community’s delight, the restaurant reopened with new ownership in August 2022, but with some changes.
Entering Laci’s in the historic Hawley-Green neighborhood of Syracuse has the same inviting, cozy atmosphere that customers have always loved about the restaurant. We were greeted warmly, confirmed our reservations, and were brought to our table.
The restaurant maintains its charming character, with dining tables scattered throughout several rooms of the house-turned-restaurant. Our meal began immediately, with a complimentary cup of pretzels and celery in a tangy dressing waiting for us at our table. The small hors d’oeuvre was a pleasant surprise, as it gave us something to nibble on as we perused the large tapas menu.
After looking over the drink menu, we opted for a variety — a glass of Pinot Grigio ($10), an Ommegang Witte ($7), a Black Cherry Mojito ($12), and a Sparkling Rubies cocktail ($13). Both the wine and beer were as expected, but the cocktails failed to impress us. The mojito lacked the punch of lime and sweetness you expect in the cocktail. And the Sparkling Rubies (raspberry vodka, pomegranate and champagne) tasted more like fruit juice without the fizz or flavor from champagne.
One of my favorite parts about Laci’s though, is that you can order throughout the night, adding to your table at any time. And the dishes come out as they are ready, so you’re not waiting for every dish to be made before getting your food. Our waitress, Mya, also let us know that the dishes at Laci’s are sized for three people to share, but can be adjusted for larger parties. They recommend two to three dishes per person. Taking her advice, we decided to order a wide variety of plates, though when we looked at the menu, we noticed that it would add up very quickly. Each dish ranged from $6 to $19, most falling in the $12- to $15-range.
The first dishes to come out were the Smash Burger Sliders ($17), Panzanella Salad ($11), and Arancini ($10). The smash burgers would turn out to be one of the highlights of the evening — well cooked, perfectly sized and nicely topped with a sweet barbecue sauce that stole the show.
The salad was good, containing a nice mix of squash, sweet potatoes, craisins and goat cheese. It was overly dressed with a strong honey dijon dressing, which also soaked through the bread, leaving the croutons a bit soggy.
The arancini, one of my favorite foods, was just bland. The outside wasn’t as crispy as it should be, and the inside lacked flavor. The marinara helped brighten up the dish, but it just wasn’t what I had hoped it would be.
As dishes continued to arrive, we tried the Chef’s Beef Short Rib ($17) and Roasted Brussels Sprouts ($8). The beef itself was nice and tender, and the chef’s sauce had a nice flavor. The potatoes missed the mark with no taste of Asiago in them. The Brussels sprouts were good if you have the expectation of steamed vegetables. I prefer mine on the crispier side when roasted, but these were moist. I also would have liked some seasoning other than salt with the almonds.
Next up were the Bacon-Wrapped Dates 2.0 ($10) and the Mac’N Cheese Eggrolls 2.0 ($11). Both dishes were reimagined versions of popular dishes from before Laci’s closed. Sadly, both were a disappointment compared to their predecessors.
It felt as if both dishes were lackluster, missing that spark that would make them memorable.
The paprika aioli helped liven up the egg rolls, but on their own there just wasn’t much substance to them.
The final two dishes were the best in terms of seasoning. The Butternut Squash Ravioli ($14) delighted the palate with notes of sage and brown butter. The dish felt like a warm hug, and we all agreed it was one of the favorites of the evening.
Lastly, the Sriracha Shrimp Tacos ($14) packed a punch of spice with nice, crispy shells. Disappointingly, the shrimp was tough from being a bit overcooked.
As for the dessert menu, several things caught our eyes, so we opted again to share a few choices. It’s easy to see that the Banana Sushi ($8) will be a hit, both for its flavor and creativity.
The Apple Bombs ($7) were also a palate-pleaser, reminiscent of mini apple danishes served with ice cream. We just wished they were larger. The Mini Cannoli Cones ($10) were also well made.
The true star of the dessert menu is the Lemon Ricotta Cake ($8), which also happens to be the only dessert that is not made in-house. It was so perfectly light and airy with just the right amount of lemon. I would order that again.
With dessert, we tried a few more drinks, with the hopes that the first cocktails were a fluke. Sadly, the Trace of Brown Sugar ($14), made with bourbon, brown sugar, cherry, orange, bitters and club soda, also let us down. The watery drink could best be described as potpourri-infused water, with almost no notion of bourbon. The espresso-based Midnight Kiss ($8), on the other hand, was a delightful finish to the meal.
Overall, our experience at Laci’s was fine, but not the extra special experience that I had come to expect from the previous rendition of the restaurant. Yes, there is the same cozy atmosphere. It is one of the only spots in the Syracuse area to get tapas. The staff is wonderful and attentive. The food wasn’t bad — far from it. It just wasn’t great either, especially for the price. Small bites should pack a punch of flavor, and many of these dishes missed the mark. The cocktails were disappointing to say the least.
Would I go back to Laci’s? Probably. Perhaps it was an off night when I visited, and everyone deserves a second chance. But I will likely stick with beer and wine from the bar instead of a cocktail, and I will be more particular about which small plates I order.
The Details
The Restaurant: Laci’s Tapas, 304 Hawley Ave., Syracuse
Reservations? Recommended, but not required.
Credit cards? Yes.
Parking: Small parking lot behind the building.
Noise level: On the quieter side.
Special diets? Vegetarian, vegan, gluten-free and dairy-free options available.
Children’s menu? No.
Hours: Wednesday-Thursday 5 to 9 p.m.; Friday-Saturday 5 to 10 p.m.
Cost: Dinner for four people, including alcoholic beverages and dessert, came to $320 with tax and tip.
****
Danielle Benjamin is a freelance restaurant critic for The Post-Standard and syracuse.com and a food blogger. You can reach her at dani@wandercuse.com.
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