Ulla Johnson Pre-Fall 2023

Courtesy of Ulla Johnson

“We’re very much known for color, optimism and joy, so taking that into this hyper tropical landscape was super exciting,” Ulla Johnson said of her captivating pre-fall imagery, which featured Jamaica’s lush landscape as its backdrop. The designer tapped Nadine Ijewere not only to photograph the campaign, but as an influence for the collection’s seasonal mood, which was chock full of vibrancy and luxe craftsmanship.

Johnson’s first pre-fall looks — “clamp dyed” silk habotai dresses with soft shirring and ruffles in saturated citrine, hibiscus and tangerine hues — were immediate standouts. “Each band is done entirely by hand, which is incredible because they can achieve symmetry,” she said, adding the group was crafted by a collective of women working in Bangalore. 

Continuing with the handmade, Johnson worked with Afghan refugee women living in Pakistan to derive the collection’s traditional Afghani thread-wrapped tassel embroideries, worn atop shibori georgette gowns, while working locally in New York City to craft the multicolored crochet dresses and separates with circular inserts. There were also artisanal space-dyed waved knits by Manos del Uruguay (a shape continued in leather accessories); allover pinwheel floral panel embroideries, inspired by her Serbian heritage; handcrafted “found objects” jewelry; gossamer butterfly lace dresses; Lurex flecked jacquards; a continued play on geometric and floral prints, and new denim and elegant, soft technical utility layers in enticing watercolor inspired hues. Even in soft, monochrome dresses with soft shirring, cascading ruffles and textural pleating, Johnson’s signature “touched by hand” feeling of continued to shine.

“We had a lot of newness this season in terms of sort of tailoring and more close-fitting shapes. You know, we’re known very much for poetic volumes, and we definitely always want to be true to our DNA, but always kind of pushing new shapes this season,” she said of the collection’s meld of slimmed-down, feminine volumes and romantic utility shapes. The idea worked well layered up and across categories, giving the rich collection a poetic, pretty (and luxurious) balance from start to finish.