New York City imports have always thrown me into a purgatory-like state of ambivalence, where hope and excitement clashes with curiosity and doubt. Every time a restaurant crosses state lines, I question why a NYC restaurant is setting up shop in New Jersey. Maybe it’s my inherent Garden State skepticism, but I always wonder: “why here?”
Such was the case when I heard that well-loved temaki (hand roll) restaurant Nami Nori moved into Montclair in September. Veterans of New York City’s famed $1,000-per-person sushi restaurant Masa, Chef Jihan Lee chef Takahiro Saekeda and Lisa Limb were looking for a new location for their Nami Nori offshoot and found Montclair to be “beautiful, diverse, and a place where we feel like we fit in well,” shared general manager Antonio Lazar. “So far, we have been super well received by the local community.”
So, what makes Montclair different than Nami Nori’s West Village and Williamsburg locations?
“We have a few exclusives on the menu that are only available here. For example, our corn ribs sell out every night, and we’re doing a temaki cannoli that I’d argue is the best cannoli in the area,” Lazar proclaimed.
I was ready to take on the temaki and more to see if I’d buy what he was selling.
The good
Generally speaking, I am not an omakase enthusiast. The texture of slabs of raw fish just doesn’t do it for me, but if minced finely, seared, or ideally cooked, I’m as game as I’d be if you put a steak in front of me. Thankfully, Nami Nori leans into a creative culinary space where a good selection of their temaki, or sushi in the form of a hand roll, and kitchen dishes are much more than straightforward pieces of fish on rice.
I started out with one of their Jersey-only starters, the honey butter corn ribs ($9). Cut into strips that curl slightly when cooked, the “ribs” were sweet, tender and juicy. A detectable char added some depth of flavor, and it was all punctuated with a savory hit from their version of Old Bay seasoning. I could see how they sell out of these every night.
Another kitchen dish I enjoyed was the crispy calamari ($14) served with a yuzu soy dipping sauce (heavy on the yuzu). The calamari was indeed crispy, delicately coated and tempura fried. Visually, it looked nothing like the mainstream fried calamari one would expect. Instead, the squid was flat and oval shaped, making it slightly more difficult to eat with chop sticks (for me, at least), but infinitely more tender. An unexpected kick of spice lingered, which I later learned was from a dusting of ichimi, a finely milled Japanese chili powder.
Moving on to the dips, I opted for their vegan mushroom dip ($11), a complex, umami bomb served cold with crunchy, iccimi-scented rice chips. Black garlic added a punch of flavor to the already intense creamy mushroom base, which was mixed with chopped mushrooms and topped with tofu cream and chopped chives. I enjoyed the dip so much (chips were great), I shamelessly devoured the remainder with the cute little wooden serving spoon.
Finally, it was temaki time. If seated at the temaki bar, a cute little stand will be placed on the ledge in front of you, which will hold each temaki as they are served, one by one. If seated at a table, you’ll be served all five temaki at once, lined up neatly in a row on a rack. The one-at-a-time experience really allowed me to focus on which one I was eating without the distraction of the others sitting there taunting me. It also ensured the crispiest nori possible, which softens quickly as it sits filled with warm rice and toppings. A small dish of ginger was also placed in front of me which was later explained to be used as a palate cleaner between temaki.
Nami Nori offers pre-curated sets, but I decided to create my own set. I started with the red crab California ($8), a familiar combination of flavors done extremely well here. Warm rice cradled a heaping pile of shredded red crab, which together with thinly shredded cucumber and avocado, made for an extremely light and fresh bite.
Next up was the eggplant ($6), a caramelized medallion covered in red miso and gobo chips. When I placed my order, my server let me know that each temaki was seasoned with wasabi and soy. This temaki was a little too heavy on the wasabi, which sharply bit through all of the flavors and lingered in my nostrils. Other than that, the nori was nice and crisp, and the gobi chips added a much appreciated crunch.
Never would I have ever thought I’d order an avocado “toast” ($8) at a Japanese restaurant, but when my server recommended its her favorite temaki, I simply said, “ok, then.” Pleasantly surprised by the popped rice coated nori and bright flavors of the pickled beet, carrot, and avocado, it was indeed a sleeper hit.
My last and fanciest temaki was the toro and scallion ($12), the perfect final stop on my temaki tour. I closed my eyes as the rich, fatty tuna melted in my mouth. That’s all that needs to be said there.
I had a tough time choosing between the three very tempting sweets. Ultimately, I went with my server, and the general manager’s recommendation, the mochurros ($8). Four, slender, rice flour-based churros stacked like Lincoln Logs and dusted with lemon sugar were placed in front of me, hot, with a side of lemon curd. Thankful that I didn’t burn the roof of my mouth, I loved the contrast of the almost molten center with the slightly chewy yet crisp exterior. They didn’t necessarily remind me of mochi, but were delicious in their own right. The lemon curd was thicker and more custardy than what I expected but added a nice creamy element and mild lemon note.
The bad
From a service standpoint, they could absolutely use a few more hands on deck to help with the pace of the meal. I was also accidentally served the wrong dip, which was a bit of a stutter step. Lastly, one of my temaki did not deliver in the way I had hoped it would. The only recommendation I took that I regretted was the kanpachi pineapple ($6), which consisted of chopped fish, chipotle, tomato, onion, koji, and a very important but not mentioned ingredient, shiso, or Japanese mint. Aside from the pineapple being undetectable, the shiso overpowered, giving the entire temaki a cilantro-like flavor that completely threw me off.
I was very curious about the temaki cannoli ($7), another of the Jersey-only items on the menu, A tiny chocolate cookie shell encased an elegantly presented filling of mascarpone cream, orange compote, cocoa nib, lime zest. As an Italian-American who has eaten her weight in cannoli, this rendition wasn’t bad, it just wasn’t at all reminiscent of an Italian one. A messier endeavor to eat, the chocolate cookie shell shattered like glass and filling oozed out everywhere.
The vibe
Word has clearly already gotten around on Nami Nori. I arrived about 10 minutes after they opened at 5 p.m., and the restaurant was already completely full. Two sushi counters, a large booth, a few smaller tables as well as a few outside ones were sat, the staff already serving guests and in temaki-making mode. The vibe was warm considering the starkly minimalistic, light wood aesthetic, and acoustics were bolder than what you’d expect from a sushi or omakase restaurant. I enjoyed the unfamiliar electronic dance music that registered faintly in the background, but overall unnecessary when all seats are filled and within very close proximity (at the sushi bar).
If you’re not in the mood to be social, the temaki bar isn’t the place for you. I was sat against the wall, in the last chair, and naturally befriended the two parties who were seated beside me in part due to proximity, but also thanks to how engaging the chefs and servers were. Service started out a bit slow, but the staff was knowledgeable, answering any specific questions I had on the temaki and other dishes I ordered, and water was replenished constantly.
Another thing worth mentioning is Nami Nori’s focus on sustainability. “Our take-out containers are made from sugar cane and corn and are completely compostable,” Lazar proudly explained. “We are really trying to be conscious of waste.”
The bottom line
Nami Nori is a great new addition to Montclair’s long-thriving dining scene, living up to the hype of its NYC counterparts. It’s great for a date, but casual enough for a catch up with a friend or dinner with family. The temaki counter is where all of the action is. Kitchen dishes are on the small side, but quantity of dishes is the name of the game here (try as much as possible). Individual pieces make Nami Nori ideal for non-committal sushi people, and there are a bevy of vegan and non-raw options to appease all dietary preferences. The restaurants is currently BYOB (wine, beer or sake) and is open for dinner from Tuesday through Saturday, with lunch on the horizon.
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Stephanie Rizzolo may be reached at stephanienjdotcom@gmail.com. Find NJ.com on Facebook.
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