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Dsquared2 Pre-Fall 2023

WWD
WWD
 2022-11-28
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Imagining Dean and Dan Caten starting to work on their latest collection, one could easily picture the design duo telling Alexa to play Macklemore and Ryan Lewis’ hit song “Thrift Shop” and vibing throughout the whole creative process.

Instead of their usual travels around the world, the designers took a journey across eras and references in a bold, eccentric lineup that wanted to mimic gems unearthed at thrift stores — only they were all brand-new Dsquared2 pieces.

“Whatever you’re dreaming to find, we’re going to make it for you,” Dan Caten said about the concept of the collection, which also reminded the twins of their own incursions into vintage stores when younger, looking for that special item that could give their wardrobe a twist.

The gimmick smartly served the designers’ desire to conjure relaxed and individual looks empowering self-expression as well as to respect their signature penchant for style mash-ups and layering. As a result, the lineup was a mix-and-match exercise of ‘70s glam and rock influences, disco vibes, bon-ton accents, retro athletic inspirations and utilitarian inflections.

Rather than full looks, the focus was on single pieces. Sheer dresses embroidered with pearls and short frocks with lace inserts had a lingerie flavor, while oversize checkered blazers looked borrowed from a man’s closet. Classic tweed jackets got the Catens’ treatment with heavy crystal embellishments, while colorful sequins covered striped pants for a flashy rainbow effect. More everyday striped pants paired with a leopard printed shirt radiated Rod Stewart vibes.

Denim shone bright with distressed treatments, sparkly finishes or appliqués of stars and planets that elevated pants and long skirts. Outerwear showed range, too, spanning from a fluffy faux fur and a coat trimmed with ruffles rendered in pastel tones to more practical utilitarian field jackets and a checkered shearling-lined coat.

And what about those exaggerated, over-the-knee cowboy boots? They were definitely to file under “best finds.”

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