Waterman's: A mainstay in Edenton

“We were scared. At first, we were really scared. We became more scared when the landlord put the lease in front of us. We had never owned a restaurant and we didn’t know if we would make it.”

Those were the words of Brian Roberts, reminiscing about his first days at Waterman’s Grill.

Waterman’s is almost as much of a town landmark for hungry diners as the Sound itself. They both attract crowds at the end of Broad Street at the end of the day.

While it’s only open for dinner, the crowd begins to assemble by 4:30 p.m., in front of Waterman’s, filling benches outside, while waiting for Roberts to raise the shades, open the front door and welcome loyal locals and visitors alike, as he has for almost three decades.

Nightly, as the sun reflects on the gathering in front of the culinary destination, guests and walkers-by find it’s almost as enjoyable as dinner itself. Families from distant destinations gather for a mini-reunion, neighbors cross sidewalk paths and visitors inquire about “the beautiful little town,” that some only recently discovered.

“I was so naive when we bought this place, it was crazy. I was so unsure if we were gong to make it or not I had an exit clause in my lease after one year,” said the long time restaurateur, with a small smirk.

“We didn’t have any money. We bought an old used ice machine and put it in the back room and hooked her up. I got a call on Friday night, the night before we were opening. The ice machine wasn’t working. No ice for our grand opening on Saturday. I called an ice company and when they asked how many pounds of ice I needed I told them 1,000 pounds. What did I know?” smiled Roberts.

“Well, eventually the truck showed up. Pulled up in front and opened the back doors. You have never seen so much ice. The young kid looked at me and asked what I was going to do with all the ice. I explained what I needed it for and he advised me to get 300 pounds. It worked out nicely. That was the beginning,” said Roberts.

Roberts is a seasoned restaurateur. Somewhat on the verge of extinction in the culinary world, he’s always ‘working the room.’ He does so most nights.

Obviously an old school culinary guy — the “house” offers customers desserts, the occasional “try this” and “this one’s on us,” often.

There are magicians in the kitchen. Order the three taco platter and split it, it turns into four tacos. The price remains the same as three.

Success has not spoiled Roberts, and the challenges have kept it interesting.

“Our success starts with the menu, which is about 75 percent from our old place of employment, the Surfrider Restaurant in Virginia Beach. Luckily, the owners gave us their blessing, when we asked if we could use it,” claimed Roberts. “Throw in some hard work, a great staff and a really cool building and location, mix it all up, and here we are.”

That statement alone outlines Roberts’ personality and persona. Seldom do restaurant owners ask permission to duplicate a menu or even have the ability to present a menu of any kind for three decades. That longevity is lavished by few restaurant owners.

Roberts reminisced, “There were three of us at the start. Rick and Katy Ebersole and myself. We worked 80 hours a week the first year. Katy waitressed and was the hostess, Rick was our main cook and I was the bartender, on top of all of our managerial duties.”

“Sadly, Katy was the true visionary and driving force behind Waterman’s and she passed away in 2016,” he added. “Rick just retired in May of this year, so as of now, I am the sole owner.”

Waterman’s is an institution in the Edenton culinary scene with its provenance approaching the three decade mark. Since it’s beginning in 1996 it has withstood the opening and closing of 44 other Edenton eateries. Roberts keeps track while pointing in the direction of former culinary locations, often describing new occupants.

Aside from Roberts’ dining room-demeanor, which is as much of the ambiance as the mounted fish on the brick walls, is his hidden kitchen ability. Keeping employees any length of time is a craft today. Most have seen the signs on the restaurant door seeking help. Not on the door at Waterman’s.

Waterman’s kitchen crew has been manning the flattop, stove and fryer for 20 plus years — an almost unheard of milestone in most eateries.

“I would hate to leave someone out — but the main crew in the kitchen, Madison Williams, Darnell Spears and Cari Ashly have been with us for over 20 years. Dossey Pruden and B.J. Potts as well, have hit the 20-plus year threshold,” boasted Roberts. “ I’ll leave that as the cutoff — many others have been here for 10 or more years.”

Roberts has hundreds of stories and he plans on penning a book with names changed to protect the innocent.

Although private about the book’s content, he shared one of those stories.

“I grew up in Western Pennsylvania — same as legendary pro golfer Arnold Palmer. He was my idol. Ironically, he came in to eat on my one night off back then, no one could find me to get me to come to the restaurant.

“Again, more irony. I had left my cell phone in my car as I was enjoying a late afternoon round of golf. By time I got the word, he had left,” Roberts recalled.

Growing up, Roberts wanted to be an athlete. He never had any desire to become a restaurant owner.

“I was desperate for money to pay the rent and eat, right out of college. I took a job as a dishwasher. My roommates had a lot of fun at my expense over that, whenever they saw me, it was ‘7 years of college down the drain,’ but we are all still friends today,” said Roberts.

Three weeks later Roberts began his climb up the culinary ladder.

“I was the daytime bartender, then waiter, then head waiter, then manager — all in about three year’s time. I used to think I could run my own place one day, but I just didn’t know how. And then we came across this space.”

Waterman’s has grown in popularity over the years and the kitchen crew has kept the menu focused. While the specials change often, the menu hosts a variety of favorites that the back of the house culinarians have mastered as the magicians they are.

Whether in search of a perfectly prepared flounder or a medium rare slice of Prime Rib, Waterman’s is a culinary oasis at the end of Broad Street. There are few places that serve Broccoli Crowns with Hollandaise Sauce. Waterman’s is one of them.

Don’t expect change from the longtime successful restaurant.

“My plans for Waterman’s is to continue doing what we do. Then one day pass this on to some homegrown employees, whenever that time comes, but I am in no hurry,” said Roberts, excusing himself to go check on a table.