Luisa Beccaria RTW Spring 2023

Is mermaid-core the next big thing? For spring, different designers in Milan hinted to the marine creature by offering personal takes on its iconography — from Blumarine’s Y2K gothic version to Andreadamo’s sexy one — and Luisa Beccaria who had her own take.

In referencing such a muse, Beccaria — who since 2006 has designed the brand alongside her daughter Lucilla Bonaccorsi — honored her signature romantic, ethereal aesthetic, delivering a feminine collection in all shades of blue with few zingy accents.

The mother-and-daughter duo focused on a plethora of dresses in lightweight or fluid fabrics — such as georgette, organdy and satin — and worked with pleats, frills, sequins and iridescent effects to further evoke the movement of water waves and how these reflect light.

In keeping with the brand’s codes, floral patterns abounded, too. Either printed or embroidered on tulle, these motifs expanded the initial narrative by nodding to lily ponds more than unexplored undersea worlds.

Even if dreamy frocks dominated the lineup, the designers included more practical daywear, such as sheer shirts, shorts and cropped pants that will come in handy when packing for the next summer destination. If headed to Capri, beware of the siren song coming from the Luisa Beccaria store in Piazzetta: from the sparkly gowns to the floral shirtdresses up to the matching swimsuits, there’s much to be tempted by.