The Vogue Editors’ Standout MFW SS23 Shows
It was the season that saw Kim Kardashian turn curator for Dolce & Gabbana, Paris Hilton close the Versace show, and Kate Moss make a surprising appearance at Bottega Veneta. But between the loud spectacles, there were plenty more Milan Fashion Week moments that made a quiet, lasting impact. Here, the spring/summer 2023 shows you need to know about.
Filippo Fior1/17Del Core
Daniel Del Core chose to use figure-hugging, sheer chiffons and airy satins to create his collection, which was loosely influenced by underwater adventures (the designer happens to be a semi-professional diver). The colour palette is reminiscent of the hues found in the ocean’s depths and ranges from severe black to vibrant fuchsias and marigolds. Excellent tailored pieces are also on offer, such as a moss-green leather two-piece with a matching little bag crafted from the same material, and a flowery brocade wide-leg pantsuit. AK
2/17Boss
Boss’s reinvention continued apace in Milan as brand ambassador Naomi Cambell opened its first show in some seasons and Future closed it. Sandwiched between them were top models – from Jill Kortleve to Mona Tougaard, Ashley Graham and Adut Akech – deaf trans actor and artist Chella Man, plus-size singer Sergio Sylvestre and many more faces who showed the brand has been doing its homework. The cast’s new-look city slicker suits were inspired by the brand’s ’80s campaigns, while the on-trend moto gear looked back to its sports heritage. This retro-modern showmanship was Boss proving that the brand is going places – and it worked. AN
3/17GCDS
Fashion has long been accused of fetishing youth, but its desire to be down with the kids seems more apparent than ever for spring/summer 2023 – and especially in Milan. Nostalgic childhood favourites popped up all over the runways, with Nicola Brognano taking inspiration from Disney’s The Little Mermaid at Blumarine, while Alessandro Michele clipped versions of Gizmo – the fanged, furry star of ’80s classic Gremlins – to models’ waistbands and stuffed them into handbags at Gucci. At GCDS, it was the turn of SpongeBob SquarePants, whose unmistakable visage was embroidered onto a yellow mesh jumpsuit that opened the show, as well as sweaters and slip dresses. Evening wear with a side order of cartoons? Giuliano Calza says aye-aye, captain. KM
Isidore Montag4/17MM6 Maison Margiela
The MM6 Maison Margiela team was inspired by the concept of rehearsals. Audience members were placed around an orchestra performing in the middle of the Fondazione Cariplo stage in Milan, as models weaved around them in compelling looks. There was a range of ideas in the clothes, from the theatre-inspired leotards worn with baggy jeans to the shredded and cut-out details across knits, dresses and tailoring. The square-toe ballet shoes will unquestionably be a hit with the cool kids. AK
5/17AVAVAV
For AVAVAV’s first runway show, creative director Beate Karlsson took a tongue-in-cheek approach to fashion’s obsession with status. Featuring models toppling over on the runway (in a carefully choreographed move, thankfully), the collection was a parody on what it means to “look rich”, with upcycled designer logos, furry coats and power shoulders galore. From an accessories perspective, the Pyer Moss designer followed up her dramatic claw footwear with giant monster boots that harked back to those Miu Miu boots from autumn/winter 2021. Happily, 99 per cent of the collection was made from deadstock – proving once again that sustainability is anything but boring. EC
6/17No. 21
A VPL appears to be quite the style statement for spring/summer 2023 with brands, including Molly Goddard and Emilia Wickstead, flashing the high-rise knicker. Leave it to Alessandro Dell’Aqua – the master of in-the-bedroom dressing – to uphold the trend in Milan. His latest offering, entitled The Lovers, was an all-out embrace of unbridled passion: ravishing pencil skirts in red sequins, sheer frilled tea dresses, exposed pink satin bras and hurriedly buttoned shirting. Dell’Aqua is in the mood for love, and it’s rated R. LH
7/17Jil Sander
With feathers, sequins and fringing details throughout, there was a certain glamorous mood about Luke and Lucie Meier’s collection. The elegantly tailored pieces felt elevated, as they were precision cut in the most luxurious satins and crepes. After showcasing their menswear and womenswear separately for five years, the design duo decided to combine the two once more, which in this case works remarkably well. AK
Alessandro Lucioni8/17Dsquared2
Dsquared2’s Dan and Dean Calen unveiled a collection that was informed by surf culture and beach aesthetics. They told Vogue Runway that “surf is sexier, cooler and hotter” and that “it’s about freedom, strength and being in the ocean.” The designers transformed basic concepts of beachwear into compelling luxury separates, from oversized board shorts and wrap skirts with joyous, tropical prints, to flared sheer trousers paired with an emerald green sequined blazer. AK
