Benetton RTW Spring 2023

As promised, Benetton’s new creative chief Andrea Incontri delivered in his debut collection for the brand. Incontri set out to preserve Benetton’s democratic, and diverse, DNA and succeeded, sending out this collection on all genders and children, too. The collection was covetable: skinny, ribbed-knit tops and matching trousers; nubby jacket-and-shorts combos in the spirit of Chanel, and a lineup of fruit-covered intarsia knits in crayon bright colors, including tomato, yellow and green. 

There were fruit patterns galore and more apples, pears and cherries in this show than in the local farmers’ market. Grandmas the world over say “Eat your greens,” but at Benetton the message is more like, “Feast on fruit” or “Wear your fruit on your sleeve.” 

All the bright colors, skinny proportions and layering looked fresh and modern and will ensure that Benetton, which crafts its collections from sustainable virgin wool, remains competitive in a ferocious market. European high-street brands often default to synthetic (nonsustainable) fibers for their cheap and cheerful knits. 

While the show itself was too long and repetitive, kudos goes to Incontri for taking on a high-street brand weighted with history and giving it a delightfully fresh spin.