Dsquared2 RTW Spring 2023

Dean and Dan Caten brought their surfboards along for the ride this season with this collection that was all about wave running and a never-ending summer. The designer brothers, who wake board and wake surf in Mykonos, layered lots of beachy pieces into this fresh, fun collection that came in a kaleidoscope of color.

It was a fitting follow-on from their fall 2022 collection, which was heavy on layering, too, and in line with the duo’s spring men’s offer.

“These are the sisters of the boys. He was a surfer, and so is she. The layers are light and there are filters, shadows and lots of color,” said the brothers, who showed in a spectacular, restored villa on via Brera that’s set to become an art gallery.

“The space felt right, and unexpected, from a brand like ours,” added the brothers, who are the only designers showing at via Brera 12 this season, with its French windows, Art Nouveau iron grates and lavishly molded ceilings.

Models were dressed as beachy bohemians, surfer girls and glistening underwater creatures. They wore breezy tank top dresses covered with tiny, shiny paillettes in shades of white, lavender and seaweed green.

A pair of glossy python trousers, in bright aqua, resembled the skin of an exotic fish, as did sequin-drenched blazers, and iridescent skirts.

Back on dry land, the looks were just as colorful, with jewel-toned checks and stripes splashed over dresses, skirts and shirts that were draped and layered one on top of the other. At times, it was too busy, but the proportions — and the colors — were just right, and will put many in a Mykonos state of mind.