FOOD

Here's what you can expect from the newest Thai restaurant in town: Newport Food Scene

Dan Lederer

There’s a circle of life when it comes to restaurants.

When one restaurant closes its doors, it's not long before another one opens up in the same spot.

It’s not a mystery why this happens. A building with an existing restaurant already has city Planning Board approval for a restaurant on the property, and there’s also an established liquor license that typically goes with the sale of the business.

If you are starting a new restaurant, having all that settled is a good place to begin. Furthermore, opening in a restaurant space means the building will come with a workable commercial kitchen and equipment.

Dan Lederer

That’s not to say a new restauranteur won’t have to invest in upgrades and changes to suit their specific needs. But if the building comes with a kitchen, you’re not starting from scratch. For any new business owner, getting it up and running as quick as possible is always ideal.

Rhea's Kitchen closes after 30 years

When Rhea's Kitchen on West Main Road in Middletown closed down, it marked the end of an era. Originally opening in 1990, Rhea's had a good run and established a loyal fanbase. But when the pandemic shutdowns happened, it took a toll (as it did on so many local businesses) and Rhea's was never really able to recover.

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They switched to serving solely breakfast in 2021, but in the end, they quietly shut down the operation. Another hometown favorite gone too soon.

When you drive by the building, you’ll see the sign for Rhea's is still there. Maybe they are keeping it up for tradition. That section of West Main Road might seem a little naked without the Rhea's sign.

But if you look closely, you’ll see there’s a new sign underneath it. It’s a small announcement to the world about the next chapter for the building.

NaPha Thai Kitchen opens on West Main Road

Welcome to Middletown, NaPha Thai Kitchen.

It’s always exciting to have a new restaurant in town, especially a new Thai food option. While they only just opened at the beginning of the month, we have high hopes for NaPha.

NaPha Thai Kitchen is housed inside the former Rhea's Kitchen at 120 West Main Road in Middletown.

It still looks much like the former restaurant. There’s extra parking in the back, just as there was at Rhea's, and a few select spots right in front making it easy for quick pickup for takeout. Inside, it’s still small and cozy, yet bright and clean with a good energy for relaxing. Add to that a very helpful and speedy staff, and you are in for an enjoyable lunch or dinner.

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The menu is full of classic Thai dishes alongside some other Asian-influenced options. Naturally they have Pad Thai, Pad See Ew and Tom Yum Soup, each delivering on the tastes you come to expect from a good Thai restaurant.

But there are lots of other choices if you’re feeling adventurous. The Massaman Short Ribs, braised in a Southern Thai-style curry and served with roti bread, is particularly tempting. The Pad Kapow — crispy pork belly with Thai basil in a spicy and savory sauce served over rice and topped with a fried egg — looks like another delight.

They also offer a Middletown Fire “Po-Tak,” which is a seafood soup made with a spicy herbal broth and served with rice which — a perfect choice for any seafood-craving Islanders.

It’s a good menu with lots of choices from curries and stir-fries to noodles and fried rice. Something for everyone. There’s also a full-service bar ready to serve all your favorites, plus a great selection of refreshing Thai soft drinks like Thai Iced Tea and Cha MaNaw (which is Thai Iced Tea with Lemon).

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They’re still in their early days at NaPha, but they are off to a good start. The staff seemed genuinely cheerful and excited to be serving up great food for dining in or takeout. They seem ready to continue the tradition of good food that they inherited from their predecessors.

They’ve got big shoes to fill. We wish them well and we’ll be cheering them on with our fork and spoon in hand, ready to eat. 

Dan Lederer is a Middletown resident with 30 years experience in the food service industry throughout New England. He continues to work locally behind the scenes within the industry and remains a devoted fan of all things restaurant and hospitality related. His column appears on newportri.com and Thursdays in The Daily News. Cheers!