Hannah Rush, owner of Trillium Farm to Table restaurant in downtown Laconia, displays blueberry crostinis, part of her seasonal menu. (Kathi Caldwell-Hopper photo/for The Laconia Daily Sun)
LACONIA — Hannah Rush knows food. She understands the importance of serving fresh vegetables, fruits, and meats. On any given day, she creates dishes centered around the fresh produce from area farms, served at Trillium Farm to Table on Canal Street downtown Laconia to appreciative customers. Rush owns the restaurant and is the driving force behind the notion that farm grown, fresh foods are best.
Rush takes full advantage of the fresh products from farms around the Lakes Region. She is enthusiastic about produce that is being harvested each day and she isn’t shy about creating wonderful dishes around vegetables and fruit.
“I get a lot from Timber Hill Family Farm in Gilford,” she explains. "Brookford Farm in Canterbury has vegetables all winter, which is great. Krebs Farm in Sanbornton has berries, and PT Farm in North Haverhill offers grass-fed meats.”
These are just some of the farms where Rush obtains produce and other goods.
The philosophy of Trillium is explained at trilliumnh.com: “We wouldn’t be a true farm-to-table without our local partners. Our cuisine is made with quality produce, meats, and cheeses acquired from farms located within our community. We will always put quality before quantity and stand by our values of sustainability by supporting local.”
Area farms deliver to Trillium after Rush gives them a shopping list; ensuring Trillium has the freshest ingredients on the menu every day. For example, Rush makes use of fresh fruit for sodas. She freezes berries in peak season and adds them to seltzer to create refreshing, beverages. How does a cooling Cucumber Shrub Soda sound, on a hot summer’s day?
Everything on the menu is grown in-season.
“For example, we serve a Mexican steak and cheese dish with corn, tomatoes and cilantro,” Rush says, referring to the seasonal crops now burgeoning at area farms.
With a strong background in food and cooking, Rush started working at Fratello’s in Laconia while in high school. This gave her a taste of cooking and she says she “loves food.” She attended the University of Vermont for nutrition, food science and dietetics.
Rush also worked on a farm in Vermont, which she says changed everything for her. “They grew their own food,” she says. Rush saw the possibilities and health benefits of farm-to-table and when she worked for a few years at Laconia’s Local Eatery, it confirmed that farm-to-table offers many menu options.
Also, Rush had an internship at America’s Test Kitchen in Boston and after that, got back into the restaurant world in a big way. “I started Trillium Farm to Table,” she explains. She had a solid background in the concept by that time and had networked with local farmers. “I reached out to farmers, and I was aware a farm-to-table restaurant would be more complicated than running a regular restaurant since my menu would change often. I know what is in-season, and I change the menu to fit.”
It is a lot of hard work and takes an awareness of what produce is in season any given time of the year, but it offers an eatery where healthful foods are very important. Trillium is a popular restaurant where customers know they can get good, fresh food created in a variety of ways.
Asked about the name Trillium, Rush smiles as she explains, “The trillium is one of the first flowers to bloom and it represents a welcome to summer and nature. I have memories of going on walks with my dad and seeing trilliums. It meant summer was here.” The name conveys hopefulness and nature and all-things fresh and growing, much like Rush’s restaurant.
With many farm-to-table menu options, Rush plans to stick to that manner of running her business. No matter the season — whether summer with its abundance of produce — or wintertime with more root vegetables, Trillium has something delicious for every taste. Her customer base is “all over the place,” she explains. “It ranges from women in their 20s to 60s who are conscious of their health. They could be vegan, vegetarians, wanting gluten-free foods, or simply enjoy a great meal with fresh foods. We have many male customers as well.”
The opening of the Colonial Theatre just around the corner from Trillium has also been advantageous. Those attending a concert appreciate having a meal before the show and Trillium is convenient and offers creative foods from which to choose. There also is a patio with outdoor seating for 20. It is the perfect place on a warm summer’s day to have a meal outdoors.
Rush is always busy crafting menus to take advantage of the local, in-season farm produce. Summer is certainly a chef’s dream with everything from corn to greens to tomatoes, blueberries, raspberries, and much more. Rush does not shy away from creating menus in the winter as well, and says she makes use of such things as root vegetables and mixed greens, which are available all winter.
A few things on the menu at Trillium do not change, however, and those are two sandwich options, two salads and two small plates. It is fun to stop by and order from the menu on any given day to discover what has been created in the kitchen. Those who love dessert will find sweet options as well.
After taking time to learn about food — how it is grown at local farms and how it can be used to create meals for every taste — Rush certainly knows food.
Visittrilliumnh.com for further information or call 603-527-8281. Trillium Farm to Table is located at 62 Canal St.
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