Where’s the best calamari in NYC? Right here on Staten Island | Denino’s wins Bracket Buster challenge

- Denino's was named the top calamari place on Staten Island by readers as part of the Advance/SILive.com's Best of Staten Island Bracket Buster challenge. The calamari shown on Tuesday, Aug. 2, 2022. (Staten Island Advance/Lauren Lovallo)
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STATEN ISLAND, N.Y. — Pizza isn’t the only thing Denino’s does well.

Just ask the thousands of Staten Islanders who voted for the Port Richmond staple in the Advance/SILive.com’s Bracket Buster challenge looking for the best calamari.

Or should we say galamad?

However you pronounce it, there’s no denying Denino’s sets a high bar, one that has been towering above the New York City restaurant scene for several decades. Just ask former FDNY firefighter Mike Burke — proud co-owner of what is arguably one of Gotham’s most well-known spots — about Denino’s longstanding celebrity.

Burke’s stepfather, the late Carlo Denino, was the one who introduced the signature crunchy, thin-crust pies in 1951 to the confectionery-turned-tavern, which almost immediately propelled the treasured spot to fame.

But we’re not here to talk pizza.

‘KEEP IT SIMPLE’

In an industry where proprietors try to outdo their competition with wildly excessive food trends fit for viral social media content, Denino’s takes a decidedly different path: Let quality ingredients speak for themselves.

”My stepfather used to say, ‘Keep it simple stupid.’ So we try to keep [our calamari] simple,” said Burke.

Denino’s calamari is deceptively straightforward — and consistently delicious.

“You can make it at home, but why make the mess?” joked Burke. “You’re better off coming here.”

Denino's owner Mike Burke. Denino's was named the top calamari place on Staten Island by readers as part of the Advance/SILive.com's Best of Staten Island Bracket Buster challenge. The calamari shown on Tuesday, Aug. 2, 2022. (Staten Island Advance/Lauren Lovallo)

He vows the dish is made up of just five ingredients: Fresh-caught squid dusted with flour that is seasoned with salt, pepper and some granulated garlic. After a light frying, the dish is served up with a side of sauce and a lemon wedge.

The crunchy coating stays crisp long after the calamari has cooled, and the rings stay just as tender as they were when the dish was first served.

Denino’s attention to detail doesn’t stop at the cephalopod: Burke and his team concocted a special tomato paste-based marinara created specifically for the calamari. Rich, thick and made fresh every day, it offers a welcome hit of acid.

It’s hard to believe Denino’s didn’t debut its crowd-pleasing calamari until the early ‘90s given it is one of the hottest-selling items. It’s a legitimate rival to Denino’s legendary pizza, according to Burke, who was thrilled to take the Bracket Buster title after a stiff competition that saw a formidable field of 15 other Staten Island favorites.

The classic calamari and a drink from Denino’s full bar can be enjoyed in the bar area, or any one of its four dining rooms.

- Denino's was named the top calamari place on Staten Island by readers as part of the Advance/SILive.com's Best of Staten Island Bracket Buster challenge. The calamari shown on Tuesday, Aug. 2, 2022. (Staten Island Advance/Shaina McLawrence)

DENINO’S EXPANSION

If you can’t make it out to the 250-seat flagship in Port Richmond, you can still get your Denino’s fix elsewhere in the tri-state area: The beloved tavern has a prime spot in Manhattan’s Greenwich Village, and a location in both Aberdeen and Brick, N.J.

And in just a few months’ time, Denino’s will open in Thousand Oaks, Calif. That’s right: The West Coast will soon have the privilege of being home to a delicious slice of Staten Island.

Rest assured, a lot of time and effort has been put into keeping the non-New York Denino’s in line with its flagship counterpart, down to the very water used to create Denino’s craved pizza crusts. The Denino’s in New Jersey uses a special filtration system that gets water on the same level as New York City’s storied H2O, while in California, the water has been tested and is tried and true to what makes a quintessentially classic Denino’s pie.

“The particular spot we’re in [in California], the water was perfect,” said Burke. He promised every location uses high-quality ingredients to give customers the best eating experience possible.

With fans located all over the United States, Burke hasn’t shut the door on further Denino’s expansion — once the California outpost opens, that’ll mark five total locations — but he is staying mum on that for now.

A look at the full bracket. Denino's beat out 15 other spots to take the calamari title. (Staten Island Advance)

COME FOR THE CALAMARI, STAY FOR THE ‘FAMILY’

Burke is grateful for the decades of support Denino’s has received from its patrons, and called his loyal customer base a “big happy family.”

“We love our customers,” he said. “A lot of customers that I’ve seen grow up, they came in with their parents, now they come in with their children. It’s great.

”It started out [the Denino family] just wanting to make a living, support a few families out of the business,” he added, referring to Denino’s start in 1923 and its subsequent transformations. “It grew into something bigger, that we’re very proud of. We’re happy to be here.”

FYI

Never been to Denino’s? Well, we’ll forgive your transgression — for now — and let Burke have the final word on what you should try out.

“Start with the galamad,” he suggested. “Then Buffalo wings, maybe an Italian egg roll, and then you go to the pizza.” For the record, Burke’s favorite pie is the “A Salute” with ricotta, fresh mozzarella, a little extra virgin olive oil, arugula and some shaved Parmigiano-Reggiano.

But, said Burke, a pepperoni pizza or a classic plain will leave you just as satisfied.

And whether you’re heading into or out of the tavern, or across the street to another Staten Island landmark (the original Ralph’s Italian Ices), be sure to walk over to the corner of Port Richmond Avenue and Hooker Place — renamed Carlo Denino’s Way in 2003 — to give a nod to the man who started it all.

To watch the Advance/SILive.com’s visit to Denino’s, click here.

Denino’s is located at 524 Port Richmond Ave., Port Richmond. It can be reached at 718-442-9401. Denino’s is open seven days a week from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. It also offers rentable private rooms for parties, events and other special occasions.

Denino’s offers online ordering for pickup through its Denino’s NYC app, and delivery through Uber Eats. But keep in mind, Denino’s is best enjoyed fresh, right from the booth.

For more, visit Denino’s Staten Island website, deninossi.com, and be sure to follow Denino’s on Instagram (@deninospizza).

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