Latin King executive chef dies of cancer at age 60; Pat Morris remembered for 'phenomenal' chicken spiedini

When Patrick "Pat" Morris broke his neck playing high school football, it changed him.

"He became cautious about everything," said longtime friend and colleague Bob Tursi. "It was trust but verify."

It was that careful approach Morris adopted, Tursi said, and his consistency, that aided his success as executive chef of east Des Moines’ The Latin King restaurant, and in the creation of iconic dishes like the restaurant's popular chicken spiedini, over nearly four decades.

Morris died June 12 at MercyOne Hospice after a lengthy battle with stage 4 prostate cancer, according to his obituary. He was 60 years old.

Morris was born in Ottumwa on Jan. 10, 1962, and attended Dowling Catholic High School in West Des Moines, where he met Tursi and another longtime friend, John Cardamone at football practice as incoming freshmen. 

Back then, Tursi said Morris was outgoing, outspoken and a talented student and athlete. His neck injury occurred while playing as a linebacker for the Maroons his junior year. He eventually recovered enough to play baseball for the Maroons but was unable to resume football.

"It had a big impact on his high school experience," Tursi said.

When Tursi acquired the east-side Italian restaurant from his third cousin, Jim Pigneri, in 1983, Morris expressed concern over his friend buying the restaurant at such a young age. Tursi and his wife, Amy, passed ownership to Whitney VinZant, a Kansas City, Missouri-based restaurateur in 2021.

Morris worked at the front counter of The Latin King while getting his bachelor's degree in business administration from then-Grand View College. He worked briefly at Hallmark after graduating from the school in 1985, but quickly found his way back to the Italian restaurant.

Morris fostered a relationship with the restaurant's executive chef, John Colbert, who influenced his own career as a chef. Morris "was impacted by how (Colbert) could make food taste good," and knew Colbert was on the brink of retirement, Tursi said. 

"And in ’87, (Morris) walked through the front door of the restaurant and asked me for an application," Tursi said, laughing. "He said, 'I want to go and be in the back.' He had a mission."

Morris learned under Colbert before the chef's retirement in 1990. Morris was one of three executive chefs at The Latin King since its opening in 1947. 

"You don't see that anymore," Tursi said. 

Morris was like a coach in The Latin King kitchen

Tursi says Morris' leadership in the kitchen was akin to running a sports team. 

"He orchestrated seven or eight people behind the line all the time and he would always say there's nothing better than a busy Friday or Saturday night," Tursi said. "It's like playing in a football game and I'm orchestrating all the guys and the guys are with me. I got guys that I need to trust."

And despite Morris' limited experience as a chef before The Latin King restaurant, it was evident Tursi confided in him.

"He knew what the kitchen was about," Tursi said. "(Him going) into that position was a comfort to me. It was a big comfort that 'OK, I don't have to worry about what's going on in the back.'"

Morris was meticulous and dedicated —  traits that allowed him to bring to life some of his signature dishes like the Penne Regine and the chicken spiedini — a skewered, charbroiled chicken breast flavored with an Amogio sauce.

"By Pat being cautious, it paid off for him, because he always did what was best for the restaurant," Tursi said. "He always put the Latin King first. Quality, quality, quality. Always."

The secret to Morris' take on chicken spiedini? Tursi claims it was his consistency and a selection of high-quality ingredients.

"It's a phenomenal dish," Cardamone said. "Chicken spiedini is not new or novel ... and you can find it in other restaurants, but (he) really elevated it with the way (he) made it. The breading ... the Amogio sauce that they created. It truly became a destination."

Morris loved to feed family, but didn't share chicken spiedini recipe

Sidney Morris, the second-youngest of Pat Morris' six children, said she used to try to pry the recipe out of her father but was unsuccessful.

"Which, you know, I get it. It's fine," she said with a laugh as she recalled her father treating family and friends with his food.

"He would always bring stuff home for us to enjoy," Sidney Morris said. "When we were younger we'd have sleepovers with our friends and he would bring us food. It was a highlight when we were younger to have friends over and enjoy some good food." 

Morris said her father excelled in his career — he was talented, hardworking and respected by colleagues, bosses and mentees. And despite his demanding work schedule, he did the best he could to balance his career with his family, including his wife Alice, children and grandchildren.

"He was a great dad. I'd like to think I got his work ethic, his drive," she said. "I'm very proud to call him my dad. He was respected by a lot of people. It's just really great that he made such an impact on people and that he will continue to make an impact on people." 

Pat also enjoyed music, and later, he liked traveling to Costa Rica, where he fell in love with the food, beach and culture, longtime friend John Cardamone said.

Cancer diagnosis didn't get him down

News of Morris' illness came as a "shock" and was difficult on family, friends and staff at the restaurant, Sidney and Tursi said. 

Tursi said he and Pat Morris had developed more of a professional relationship over the last 20 years.

"But when he got sick and he stopped working and I sold out, it allowed me to cherish and bring back our friendship on a more personal note," Tursi said. 

Cardamone said Morris worked hard to fight cancer: "He didn't let it get him down." 

Wounds from the loss of their friend on June 12 are still "fresh," Cardamone said. 

"You just hate to lose a friend," Cardamone said. "I loved Pat like a brother. He would do anything for you."

Cardamone explained a ritual the trio had nearly every Christmas Eve.

"We would get together — and it was hectic at the Latin King on Christmas Eve because there were dinners flying out the door — but we would always try and find 30 minutes," he said. "(We'd) open a bottle of really nice wine and the three of us would share a glass of wine."

"It was tough knowing he was not going to make it till Christmas," Tursi said. "We spent a lot of Christmases together. It was our busiest time of the year."

Sidney Morris said her father is missed, but he wouldn't have wanted his death to make his family put their life on hold. 

"He always said, 'it's the circle of life' and 'whatever will be, will be,'" she said. 

Pat Morris loved making people happy with his food, his daughter said.

"He said it was a great privilege to be a part of big occasions and celebrations in people's lives," Morris said. "He loved the fact that he could be a part of that in a way and just knowing people enjoyed the food gave him a lot of pride."

Virginia Barreda is a trending and general assignment reporter for the Des Moines Register. She can be reached at vbarreda@gannett.com. Follow her on Twitter at @vbarreda2.