Dior and ERL’s New Capsule Collection Showcased “California Couture” for Spring 2023

Kim Jones’ Dior has steadily pushed boundaries for directional menswear – crafting approachable sheer organza items, reinterpreting the “Saddle” bag and igniting a frenzy within the footwear market. For Spring 2023, Jones continues in that vein by teaming up with ERL’s Eli Russell Linnetz for a new capsule collection titled “California Couture.”

Presented as a first-ever guest-designed collaboration between Jones and Linnetz, the capsule was shown in California’s Venice Beach, which is a first-time location setting for the brand. The runway comprised a fleet of ERL x Dior clad models dressed in vibrant pastel satin suits, quilted puffer jackets, Christmas-colored tinsel tops and cozy half-zip pullovers.

Chunky gray cable-knit sweaters were tacked with intricately-placed white pearls beads, ‘90s style suit jackets were inverted with fabric lining worn on the outside to show a vintage “CD” logo pattern, tuxedo pants had crystal-encrusted side paneling, and oversized denim pants and shorts were treated with a light stonewashed effect.

While the collaborative accessories were paired with corresponding ensembles, the accessory lineup was strong enough to carry its own show. Newly introduced mini “Saddle” bags – named “Male Minaudiere” – appeared in a precious gold and Christmas tinsel format, skate sneakers were decorated in satin and leather quilting, and beanies were elevated with pearl detailing and top-tied flaps.

Reflecting on the collection, Jones (the Artistic Director for Dior Men’s), tells HYPEBEAST, “I wanted to bring a new energy to Dior with colors and couture. Looking at this last show in Los Angeles, I think we did a great job! I love Los Angeles. It’s the American way, the American way of looking at sportswear. Also the idea of Christian Dior in America, of the glamour of that time in film.”

“It’s absolutely necessary to constantly recreate to satisfy our customers. Consistency is very important. We have to create things that will please our customers and keep our stores filled with the kinds of products they will purchase,” he added.

Linnetz also gave insight into their design pairing, stating, “We started looking at the Dior archive from the year of my birth, 1991. This was during Gianfranco Ferré’s period as Artistic Director, and was a part of the history of Dior that felt completely fresh for both Kim and me.”

There’s a collision of moments in time and history throughout the collection of cross-generational and spatial meetings in time,” he added.

As the ERL x Dior ocean blue-painted runway engulfed its final flurry of models, the last few looks evoked the idea of luxe sailors riding both a coastal wave of the beach and a streetside wave of the California city.

More information on the collaboration and its availability can be found on the brand’s website.

Elsewhere in fashion, Louis Vuitton’s Cruise 2023 show held a science-fiction element at its core.