A sparkling gem – Cheeca resort the crown jewel of Islamorada

Several years ago, while visiting my parents in the Sunshine state I took a few days to explore Islamorada, one of the lesser-known Florida Keys.  It is a place I now go back to often.  Islamorada, consisting of six islands, is located approximately halfway between Miami and Key West, and is one of those sparkling gems awaiting for you to come and discover what many call the Sportfishing Capital of the World, with her beautiful coastal waters, myriad watersports, elegant or casual lodging options, and the freshest bounty from the sea. Not to mention, enough Key lime dessert offerings to host an annual “best of” competition between the many, “best-Key-lime-pie-in-the-world,” restaurants.

In talking with the residents of Islamorada, the majority of whom are transplants from the colder northern regions of the country, it appears that they initially discovered the area while passing through on their way to Key West, 77 miles south of Islamorada.

One quick left coming from the north off Route 1 – about mid-Islamorada, and you’ll find yourself immersed in dense, tropical flora, as you’re welcomed to the oceanfront oasis of Cheeca Lodge & Spa www.cheeca.com   It is an integral center point for both the local community and travelers alike, complete with an array of distinctive culinary offerings, an award-winning spa, water activities, tiki bars plus multiple pools, nine-hole golf course, and tennis, all-set amid an incredible swath of windswept palm trees.

This crown jewel is nestled on 27 lush acres of Islamorada and is set on 1,200 feet of palm-fringed beach and crystal water. Kids are not forgotten at Cheeca, as Camp Cheeca has been designed to entertain kids while educating them about the wildlife found in the Keys.

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Famous guests have reeled in bonefish right off the resort’s pier. President George H.W. Bush called Cheeca his “official residence” during his many fishing trips.

A trip to Islamorada would not be complete without sampling some of the local island cuisine. Fresh seafood is served everywhere from island tiki bars and dockside fish houses to gourmet beachfront cafes and secluded island bistros. And, I didn’t have to go far to begin my culinary journey, since Cheeca has several restaurants and bars, each with a different personality. Executive Chef Charlie Trexel is at the helm of the restaurants where his creativity is shown in his dishes.

At Nikai Sushi Bar: start off with miso soup and the edamame tossed in sea salt and garlic oil. The bonsai roll consists of panko-fried soft-shell crab and avocado topped with spicy tuna, chipotle sweet soy and fried green onion. For dessert: indulge in the matcha ginger cake finished with green tea mousse, ginger crumble. citrus anglais and raspberry gel. The Japanese items and sushi is rounded out with bento boxes, poke bowls, scallop shooters and ramen dishes. Keeping with the theme, there is a plethora of sake, Asian beers and Asian-inspired craft cocktails.

Atlantic’s Edge is a meal with a view and is the flagship restaurant of Cheeca. For dinner, I began with Caribbean conch fritters served with cilantro citrus aioli, perfect for dipping. The seared fennel-dusted Mahi with butter-poached little neck clams is served with coconut cilantro rice, saffron fumet, sweet southern Florida tomatoes, and shaved fennel bulb salad. Chef Charlie was delighted to share the recipe for this dish below. Watch him prepare it here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D2RqOPT5aGI

Cheeca’s Famous Key Lime Pie (rich key lime custard, graham cracker tart, coconut cream, fresh berries) put a happy ending to this meal with a view.  The pineapple upside down cheesecake, is rich NY Style Cheesecake, pineapple caramel, maraschino cherry, graham cracker crumble, and cherry gel. I’ll be back for this on another visit.

If you are lucky enough to catch a fish or two during your visit, for $30 per person, the chef is happy to prepare it in the style of your choice and serve your catch with Yukon Gold mashed potatoes and vegetable of the day.

If fish isn’t your thing, hand cut USDA prime beef is available. The 12- ounce NY strip is served with a peppercorn Burgundy reduction. A 10- ounce Filet Mignon is served with a classic demi- glace and a 14- ounce ribeye is accompanied with Bordelaise sauce.

Atlantic’s Edge serves breakfast and lunch as well, with those panoramic views to cherish as you enjoy your dining experience. Instead of the traditional breakfast fare, I decided to go all out with the Open Face Caprese Omelet (three eggs, topped with sliced heirloom South Florida tomatoes, melted fresh buffalo mozzarella, basil, and drizzled with balsamic glaze) I added the warm water lobster to make it an extra-special breakfast experience.

Another menu item that piqued my interest was the Lobster BLT Omelet (3-Egg omelet stuffed with spiny lobster meat, applewood smoked bacon, creamy Brie cheese, sauteed spinach, and baby heirloom tomatoes)

For dinner on another evening, I dined alfresco at Mia Cucina, Cheeca’s casual Italian restaurant, serving up artisanal pizzas, pastas, and salads. Once the server brought over the basket of warm tomato bread; it quickly disappeared. And the aroma in the restaurant made my mouth water… I knew then the meal would be delightful. I started with the Burrata salad (fresh and pulled Stracciatella stuffed mozzarella, pesto Genovese, sweet grape tomato confit, balsamic caviar, rosemary focaccia crostini) The Mediterranean chicken pizza (herb marinated chicken, baby portobella mushroom, sundried tomato, Feta) was baked to perfection with a crust that had just the right crispness.

A fan of spaghetti and meatballs, my comfort food go-to, I ordered Mia Cucina’s version described on the menu as mouth-watering Granny Mia’s Secret Meatball, San Marzano marinara with fresh spaghetti pasta, enhanced with shaved garlic, and imported Grana Padano. It was a bit of Italy in the Florida Keys. Those on a gluten-free diet can request cauliflower crust for their pizza and gluten-free pasta.

No Italian meal is complete without dessert. The Torta di limoncello was light and refreshing (fresh lemon cake, Italian sweet Crème, seasonal berries)

A short list of Italian wine and beer is served.

Light fare, snacks and cocktails are served at poolside Tiki Bars, complete with iconic thatched roofs.

When visiting Islamorada a stop at Islamorada Restaurant & Bakery, better known as Bob’s Bunz, www.bobsbunz.com, serving the largest cinnamon buns I have ever seen, and worth every calorie (this is a must). The bread pudding French toast put together two of my favorites. The seasonal special, pumpkin bread French toast with a fried banana was dessert in a breakfast. Pastry Chef Robert Spencer, Jr. is known for his delicious pastries and elegant wedding cakes. His popular potato chip cookies have the right combination of sweet and salty. It was a treat to watch Bob make a batch. Go to https://bit.ly/39zfF6L for recipe. By the way, Bob is a native of Philadelphia. He got his start in baking when he entered the “Men’s Bake-Off” at his church. He then attended and graduated from The Restaurant School in Philadelphia with a degree in pastry arts.

Dining right on the white sand beach watching the setting sun was nothing short of paradise at Morada Bay https://www.moradabaykeys.com/ , home to Morada Bay Beach Café. Conch chowder is a staple on most menus in the Keys, so I gave it a try; perfectly spiced and chock-full of conch meat, fingerling potatoes, sweet summer corn, applewood smoked bacon and finished with flamed brandy. Delicious! The watermelon salad was refreshing on this warm day. The compressed cubed watermelon is served with arugula, toasted Macadamia nuts, basil, mint, crumbled goat cheese and sprinkled with aged balsamic. Adding white shrimp on a sugar cane skewer brought it to another level. Again, Key lime pie for dessert. It is no secret; I do enjoy trying different versions of this Florida Keys dessert staple. For more formal dining at Morada Bay, Pierre’s is the place for fine dining while enjoying breath-taking sunsets in an elegant setting.

 

For a laid back, oceanside dining experience, check out Lazy Days, www.lazydaysrestaurant.com. The jumbo shrimp cocktail lives up to its description “the biggest and best in the Keys.” Perfect for sharing is the Shrimp Dip (shrimp, garlic, shallots, roasted red peppers, Parmesan cheese, mixed with cream cheese, baked to golden brown, served with tortilla chips). Rich, but the ingredients were in perfect harmony. There was more fish to come with the Grouper Lorenzo (grouper sauteed and topped with a crab cake,  key lime butter and béarnaise sauce). The mini banana bread included in the breadbasket could have been dessert, however, I tried their rendition of Key Lime pie too.

Want to take a key lime pie to the beach? The Key Lime Pie Lady www.keylimepielady.com  makes an awesome one. They are sold at several locations around Islamorada and beyond.  I bought one to a dinner party and one to my parents and they were a hit. She also sells ice cream in guess what flavor?

A bookstore stop was a must, to check out the local cookbook section. These two became my souvenirs. “The Flavors of The Florida Keys” by Linda Gassenheimer, (2010, Atlantic Monthly Press, $27.50), provides recipes from waterfront beach shacks to resort dining rooms as well as stories behind the recipes. “The Florida Keys Cookbook,” by Victoria Shearer, (2013, Globe Pequot Press, $21.95), is a combination of food history, local lore and recipes showcasing the Florida Keys’ bounty from local restaurant chefs and home cooks. These books gave me some direction on my culinary journey.

To help plan your trip to Islamorada, go to http://www.fla-keys.com/islamorada/

 

Fennel Crusted Mahi

salt and pepper

1  7-ounce portion Mahi Mahi or white fish of your choice (bass, trout etc..)

Oil to coat pan

1 teaspoon fennel pollen (or crushed toasted fennel seed)

5  littleneck clams

1 teaspoon chopped garlic

1 teaspoon chopped shallot

3 ounces white wine

4 ounces fish broth

3 ounces cubed butter (room temperature)

5 roasted tomato quarters

1 teaspoon chopped parsley

4 ounces cooked rice of choice

 

Pat fish dry and season with salt and pepper, coat sauté pan with oil and heat to medium high (just until oil smokes a little bit)

Add the seasoned fish and sear presentation side down first. Cook about 2 minutes until a crust forms.

Flip fish over and sprinkle fennel pollen. Allow to cook about 3 minutes.

Add clams to pan and a little more oil. Add garlic and shallot and cook until tender.

Add white wine and cook until reduced by half. Add fish broth and bring to a boil.

Reduce heat to a simmer and slowly add butter cubes while agitating the pan to emulsify the sauce.

Allow to cook for about a minute until sauce begins to thicken. Add roasted tomatoes and parley. Makes one portion

Stephen Fries, is a professor and coordinator of the Hospitality Management Programs at Gateway Community College, in New Haven, CT. He has been a food and culinary travel columnist for the past 14 years and is co-founder of and host of “Worth Tasting,” a culinary walking tour of downtown New Haven, CT. Stephen@stephenfries.com For more, go to stephenfries.com.

 

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