Syracuse, N.Y. — Six letters on the second-to-last page of the menu at New Century Vietnamese Restaurant presented an exotic challenge.
Durian.
Sometimes, reviewing restaurants is about stepping out of your comfort zone. Other times, it’s about taking one for the team. Durian certainly met both criteria. The fleshy, melon-like fruit native to Southeast Asia is not unlike cilantro. Some people love cilantro, while others think it tastes like soap. Some love Durian for its caramelly sweetness and its nutty flavors. Others think it smells and tastes like something less appealing. Search “durian flavors” on the internet and you will find people describing it as smelling or tasting like sewage, a gym sock or a dead animal.
It appears in desserts at New Century, offering an authentically Vietnamese element rarely found in the area, and I opted to get a durian milkshake to try it out.
I wouldn’t say that I regretted it, because now I can say that I’ve had durian. That the flavor and aroma caused me to gag is no reflection on New Century, the decades-old restaurant on Syracuse’s North Side. I just happen to fall into the column of people that are not agreeable to the fruit. Our waiter offered a wry laugh as he took away the shake, knowing one more person stepped up to the challenge and failed.
Luckily, the bold flavors of the menu were more than adept at covering up any aftertaste we may have endured.
New Century offers a full menu of Vietnamese cuisine, spanning noodle and rice dishes, traditional beef pho bo and traditional entrees. You won’t find banh mi sandwiches, steam buns or dumplings, but you will find one of the house specialties: cha gio re. The house egg rolls are filled with shrimp, pork and carrots, and surrounded in a special homemade wrapping of rice paper with a pastry-like lacing on the exterior. In addition to the unique appearance of the eggroll, which are typically smooth, there was an intriguing texture and crunch.
It was one of the exceptional appetizers that we shared, half of which were wrapped in rice paper. In the spring rolls ($5.95), small shrimp and shredded pork were joined by vermicelli, lettuce, sprouts and mint. The cold goi cuon was joined with a bowl of smooth peanut sauce, which added obvious flavors and a creaminess.
Chicken wings at New Century ($7.95) are served whole with the wing tips and double-fried. This treatment renders the exterior extra crispy without sacrificing the juiciness of the meat. The canh ga chien gung was advertised as ginger-flavored, but there was no noticeable ginger flavor. They dipped nicely in the sweet chili sauce that accompanied the eggrolls.
Our favorite of the bunch was the bo lui. Strips of beef were marinated in something soy sauce-based and grilled over an open fire. You could taste the smoke in each bite of the thin beef, which was removed from its skewer before serving. They received a squeeze of lime juice, and sprinkling of cilantro and chopped scallions before serving, adding acidity and earthy depth.
We stayed in the extensive noodles and rice section for our entree choices. The bun bi, tom, thit nuong ($12.95) came from the vermicelli side of the menu. Fluffy rice noodles were topped with grilled pork and shrimp and served with cabbage and scallions. Not unlike the bo lui, the proteins carried a lot of grill flavor, without just tasting like grilled meat. A side of sweet chili sauce offered subtle heat.
Mi xao don ($16.95) was a mixed stir fry of beef, chicken, shrimp, squid and vegetables served over crunchy uncooked egg noodles. It didn’t look like much when it was served, but the treasure of this dish was at the bottom: those egg noodles were steeping in a rich, savory beef broth. If you just brought me a bowl of noodles and broth, I would have been happy. The flavorful blend of protein and vegetable was a bonus.
We didn’t order any pho, letting the warm outdoor temperatures direct us away from soup and noodles. There are 12 different combinations available, pairing meatballs, tendon, brisket, tripe and steaks of varying doneness. We’ll find our way back soon enough for a bowl.
New Century is located in a building that decades ago was an Italian restaurant, reflecting a shift in where the area’s immigrant populations settle. The landing spot that Syracuse has provided to immigrants for decades is reflected best in its restaurants and New Century’s showcase of homestyle cuisine offers an adept representation of Vietnamese food culture.
The Details
The Restaurant: New Century Vietnamese Restaurant, 518 Kirkpatrick St. at Carbon Street, Syracuse; (315) 410-9999.
Delivery? Yes, by calling the restaurant directly.
Reservations? No.
Credit cards? Yes.
Noise level: Moderate. For an intimate restaurant, we were able to have a quiet conversation and hear one another over the music piped into the dining room.
Access to disabled: There are large steps leading into the restaurant and no evident ramp. The walkways inside are wide and easy to get around.
Parking: A few parking spots are located near the front door, but there is on-street parking on Kirkpatrick and Carbon Streets.
Special diets? Vegetarian, and dairy- and gluten-free options are plentiful.
Children’s menu? No, but there were numerous families with younger children enjoying dinner. The menu is large enough to find something kid-friendly.
Hours: Wednesday through Monday, 10:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. Closed Tuesdays.
Cost: The most expensive item on the menu is $21.95. Most entrees are in the $13 to $17 range. Dinner for two with beverages, starters, entrees, tax, 3% credit card surcharge and 20% gratuity was $108.38.
Jared Paventi is a restaurant critic for syracuse.com and The Post-Standard. You can reach him at jaredpaventi@gmail.com. Sign up for our free weekly Where Syracuse Eats newsletter here.
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