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Primrose Restaurant in Corning is 'city dining in a small town'

Paula Reece
Special to the Register
Primrose Restaurant is located at 619 Davis Ave. in Corning.

After gaining experience as a chef in Omaha, Joel Mahr began looking for the opportunity to own his own farm-to-table restaurant. That opportunity presented itself just 80 miles southeast of the city in small-town Corning, population hovering around 1,500.

“I always said Corning chose us,” said Mahr, referring to his wife, Jill Fulton, and himself. The couple was selling vegetables at a local park with Fulton’s parents, who grew produce for restaurants in Omaha and sold them locally in Villisca and Corning. “The local paper had a small cafe for sale, and it sparked some interest. Unfortunately it wasn't what we were looking for.”

But luck was on their side. Corning Chamber of Commerce member Beth Waddle showed them another property just two buildings up the street.

Primrose Restaurant is located at 619 Davis Ave. in Corning.

“We kind of loved it from the get-go,” said Mahr. “It needed some work, but we were ready for a change of pace.”

That three-story building, more than 100 years old and sporting plaster walls and tin molding ceiling, became Primrose Restaurant.

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Celebrating the 4-year anniversary of its opening this month, the couple works together to create a restaurant experience that features local ingredients and a changing menu. As co-owners, Mahr works as chef and back of house manager, and Fulton’s role is mixologist and front of house manager. 

Primrose Restaurant is located at 619 Davis Ave. in Corning.

In creating his dishes, Mahr uses local produce when in season and as much local meat – chicken, lamb and pork – as possible. Although they do keep some staples on the menu, they also change up many of the offerings every week, depending on what’s available. You might see Lamb Shank, Crab-Stuffed Sole or Korean Mac & Cheese on the menu. They even mix up the desserts, from Ricotta Doughnuts to rotating flavors of House Made Ice Cream.

The tagline of Primrose Restaurant is “City Dining in a Small Town,” which is just what Mahr and Fulton love about their venue.

“The townsfolk love to see all of the cars from out of town,” said Mahr. “They also enjoy time spent with friends and family socializing. We really don't see people on their phones that much. Sure they take pictures of the food, but most guests talk with each other.”

And isn’t that what a dining experience should be?

Smoked Pork belly, melon, farro, sweet corn and radish at Primrose Restaurant in Corning.

Address: 619 Davis Ave., Corning

Phone: 641-322-3444

Website:facebook.com/primrosecorning

Distance from Downtown Des Moines: 96 miles

Hours: 11 a.m.-2 p.m. Tuesday, 11 a.m.-2 p.m. and 5-9 p.m. Wednesday-Saturday.

Reservations: Mahr suggests if traveling from a ways out, call for reservations at 641-322-3444. “It’s crazy to have to even say this in a town of 1,500 people,” he said. “The restaurant gets busy early and usually fades out about 9 p.m.”

Faroe Island salmon, eggplant puree, baby carrots, pistachio and summer squash at Primose Restaurant in Corning.

Kids: Feel free to bring the kids along for lunch or dinner. “We definitely have a family-friendly fee and kid-friendly food,” said Mahr. “Even the adults want our homemade chicken fingers.”

Drinks: With a full bar, you can find nearly anything to satisfy your taste buds. Mahr brags that his wife “shines making the drinks.” His recommendation: “We definitely have some fans of our margarita. With fresh lime juice and quality tequila, it’s just too good.”

Events: On Wednesdays, Primrose offers half-price wine, and $2 “Dad Beers” on Thursdays (think Busch Light or Miller High Life). “We have hosted beer dinners with Keg Creek Brewery in Glenwood, as well as wine dinners,” said Mahr. Check their Facebook page for upcoming events.

House-made chorizo verde sausage, cheesy grits, pickled red onions, cilantro and farm egg at Primrose Restaurant in Corning.

The Name: Mahr and Fulton came up with the name Primrose Restaurant from a poem by Jim Harrison called “I Believe.” “His depiction of rural America in that poem stuck with me,” said Mahr. “And then there is the line of ‘the way the primrose grows from the cow skull.’ The name was there, and I have seen that same image — cow, deer or whatever — walking around Jill's parents’ farm while looking for mushrooms, wild onions, raspberries, gooseberries, the kind of stuff chefs do out in the country.” 

While You’re There: Make an overnight trip to Corning and stay at the newly built Corning Hotel, a 33-room boutique hotel (thecorninghotel.com). With the new hotel, Mahr says Corning has really become a destination in itself. He suggests checking out the “local dirt track racing and two campgrounds, both with lakes (Lake Icaria and Lake Bender) to fish in.  Lake Icaria is a larger campground where boaters can ski or just cruise. We also have an opera house that hosts musicals and concerts. So the town has quite a lot to offer.”