Alexis Mabille Couture Spring 2022

Dominique Maitre/WWD

With a return to the runway at his favored venue, the Salle Pleyel, Alexis Mabille toned down the color palette and relaxed the silhouettes in places with his playful spring collection, entitled “Desire.”

In tones of blush, black and white, he toyed with proportions at length.

The first look usurped the shape of a sweatshirt as a transparent lace dress embroidered with swirls of ribbons, its outsized form worn off the shoulder, its elongated sleeves hanging loose below the arms.

Elsewhere, the sportswear staple was made from black lamé, knotted around the waist to form the designer’s signature giant bow.

Shirting shapes were reinterpreted and used in a diversity of ways. A piqué silk tailcoat robe flowed with buttons down the back, while collar shapes were used to create giant flaps atop a flowing striped dress or graphic shoulder details on a bodice.

These fluid pieces were built around a canvas of elaborate lingerie-inspired pieces like bodysuits and bustiers in allover sequins or lace.

Such corsetry details, also seen on some of the casimir silk gowns that are another house signature for Mabille, were more familiar territory.

Lined with copper lamé, a heavy silk hooded cape had something of the fairy-tale heroine about it, but with a contemporary touch that felt fresh for the designer, who’s well-known for his deft hand with vintage-inspired glamour.