Ulyana Sergeenko Couture Spring 2022

Courtesy of Ulyana Sergeenko

Russian designer Ulyana Sergeenko looked to the Art Deco age for her latest couture collection, recalling the confidence and optimism of the last century’s Roaring ’20s.

Inspired by the Soviet painter Lyubov Popova, Sergeenko adapted pieces of her cubist artworks into lace corsets, patterns and silhouettes. Hydrangea flowers, which symbolize harmony and peace with their abundant buds in bright pinks and blues, also played prominently, interpreted into geometrical motifs and shown as pompom wraps, brooches and bathing caps. Flapper-style crystal head coverings topped structured slipgowns.

It all harked back to the 1920s with a light touch in shapes and accents, deftly avoiding veering into Great Gatsby costume party territory.

Sergeenko also added sporty nods with silk track pants and sequined trousers with clever cutouts that added an unexpected note of flirtatiousness. Footwear was inspired by ice skates, and models carried clutches shaped like tennis rackets. She also incorporated men’s looks for the first time, showing jacquard dress shirts, high-waisted trousers and smart herringbone coats with rounded shoulders evocative of the era paired with driving gloves.

In the accompanying film, the brand highlighted the work of its artisans, with the names and of the embroiderers, knitters, pattern cutters and tailors rolling at the end — giving credit where credit is due.

The collection was a hopeful, playful turn from last season’s darkly foreboding mood and Sergeenko made an argument for enjoying beauty during turbulent times.