You’re unlikely to have missed the vintage Jean Paul Gaultier revival we’ve seen of late, with everyone from Bella Hadid and Kendall Jenner to Rihanna and Cardi B getting in on the act. With celebrity champions like these, it’s no surprise that ’90s and Noughties JPG pieces are so hotly sought-after right now: earlier this month, The RealReal reported that demand has shot up by 70 per cent in the past year alone.
Looking to invest but don’t know where to start? Well, Jean Paul Gaultier launched resale for the first time last year, although the selection on its site is currently fairly limited. Then, there are vintage dealers like Pechuga Vintage, Nina Gabbana and NN Officiel, who supply pre-loved JPG to the stars, as well as the likes of The RealReal, Vestiaire Collective and 1stDibs, which are well worth a visit.
Read more: The Best Vintage Shops In London
Top of many of our wishlists are, of course, JPG’s famous prints (just look to Y/Project’s autumn/winter 2022 runway if you had any doubt over their highly-covetable status right now). “I’ve found cyberdot pieces from fall ’95 have been a big hit for a few years now,” Marie Laboucarié, founder of Nina Gabbana Vintage, tells Vogue. “After Kendall and Kylie Jenner wore the ‘Venus de Milo’ print from spring/summer ’99, prices shot up and are still super high to this day. Now this has become one of the most searched for vintage JPG prints.”
NN Officiel’s Natasha Nicole agrees. “Anything with a print is number one [on the list] – and his prints range from classical art to Op art to anything in between,” she says. “For me, personally, I really love the fact that Gaultier displays a lot of classical art on the prints: the ‘Mona Lisa’, ‘The Birth of Venus’.”
Nicole also advises looking out for matching sets, à la that eagle-printed two-piece worn by Kendall in October (which was actually sourced from NN Officiel). “Anything that can be worn as a whole look is such a statement,” the vintage expert continues. “[Kendall’s skirt] was actually a sarong and [her stylist] Dani Michelle and Kendall wanted to turn it into a skirt, so that was custom made for her.”
While searching for JPG’s most popular prints, you’re likely to come across the brand’s diffusion lines, including Soleil and Maille Femme – which have both gone up significantly in price of late. “Ironically, the Maille and Soleil pieces were the cheapest of the labels back in the day,” Johnny Valencia, founder of Pechuga Vintage, explains. “The leggings that are now selling for $2,000 to $3,000 (£1,480 to £2,220) were never more than $200 to $300 (£148 to £222) when they first came out. We’ve seen the rise in price of these two labels simply because of the marketing and the demand.”
For a more affordable price point, it’s worth trying Jean Paul Gaultier Jeans – the brand’s diffusion line that was behind the denim crop top, held together with safety pins, worn by Bella in January 2020. “Vintage JPG jeans always have this unique element that will make them stand out. It can be a trompe l’oeil print, a pierced detail, a laced waist, a zipped belt, or a buttoned leg,” Laboucarié says. “Plus, the cut is always super flattering. I have a few pairs of these jeans myself and I wear them all the time.”
Of course, Gaultier’s famous bustiers and cage pieces are dream items for any vintage JPG obsessive – but these tend to come with a much heftier price tag. “They’re really sought after,” Nicole comments. “You have to fork up the money because they’re very difficult to find and are very expensive; they’re next level.”
If you’re just starting out on your vintage Gaultier journey, then it’s worth doing your homework. “There is no secret vault of JPG; vintage JPG is everywhere on the internet, for example,” Valencia says. “But you have to know what you’re looking for. If you want a good deal on a piece you’re going to have to do extensive research. Unsure of something? Google it.”
