Mandelic Acid Is the Secret Star In Your Fave Skin-Care Products

It seems as though the skin-care world collectively woke up one day and decided that physical exfoliants were out and chemical exfoliants were in. While physical exfoliants aren't all bad, beauty pros and skincare enthusiasts alike have taken a liking to chemical exfoliants, which, unlike their gritty, often abrasive counterparts, don't create problematic microtears in your skin.

The near-unanimous cancellation of facial scrubs brought with it a new interest in alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) and their exfoliating abilities. Though you may be most familiar with AHAs such as lactic and glycolic acids, there's another skin-renewing AHA that doesn't get as much praise as it deserves: mandelic acid.

What is Mandelic Acid?

Simply put, mandelic acid is an AHA extracted from bitter almonds. Though bitter almonds aren't safe for human consumption due to their high levels of cyanide, the mandelic acid extracted from the nut can work wonders for your skin, according to dermatologist Kesenia Sobchak, M.D. As a refresher, an AHA is a water-soluble acid that sloughs away dead skin cells on the outermost layer of skin (or deeper in the case of some in-office chemical peels that use AHAs). Promoting cell turnover in this way can result in brighter, healthy-looking skin. (

Mandelic acid has a large molecular structure compared to other AHAs, making it ideal for folks with sensitive skin, says Laura Cline, senior director of product development and education at Youth To The People. The larger molecule isn't able to penetrate skin as deeply, which translates to less risk of irritation.

The Benefits of Mandelic Acid for Skin

Mandelic acid is known for its ability to prevent breakouts and fight pigmentation, lines, wrinkles, and dullness. As the skin ages, cell turnover slows down. The middle layer of the skin (the dermis), which is made of supportive fibers, starts to thin, allowing lines and wrinkles to appear, according to the Cleveland Clinic. As a chemical exfoliant, mandelic acid can help boost that cell turnover, giving your skin a smoother texture and brighter look by revealing healthier skin cells that lie underneath, says Dr. Sobchak.

Mandelic acid also offers similar perks to fan-favorite hyaluronic acid. "Both hyaluronic and mandelic acid have antioxidant and anti-inflammatory compounds that help with cell regeneration.," says Dr. Sobchak. "Both easily absorb in the skin and create optimal conditions for absorption of other serums in the skin." (

Additionally, mandelic acid has antimicrobial and antibacterial properties that make it ideal for acne and breakout-prone skin types, says Cline. It may help reduce breakouts and resultant post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

How to Apply Mandelic Acid

Mandelic acid exists in skin-care products ranging from facial cleansers to scalp treatments. The most important thing to note when incorporating mandelic acid into your skincare routine is to avoid using it alongside other products with AHAs or BHA, says Dr. Sobchak. This can over-exfoliate the skin and lead to irritation and sensitivity. As with other acids, it's also essential to apply sunscreen (of at least SPF 30) when using mandelic acid, as AHAs are known to increase sun sensitivity.

That said, mandelic acid can appear alongside other acids in skin-care products. In this case, you can assume that they're formulated in a way in which the acids "play nicely" with one another, says Cline.

"You will typically see mandelic acid at a level of 1-10 percent," she says "The usage level of mandelic acid, or any other AHA, varies depending on the formula, function, application frequency, and other key ingredients within the product. Generally speaking: the higher [the concentration], the less often you should use it, and the more likely you are to experience irritation, sensitivity, or dryness." (

Even though mandelic acid is relatively gentle, it's best to start slow if you're new to the world of chemical exfoliation, says Cline. She suggests using a mandelic acid product once or twice a week and working up to daily use. If you experience any sensitivity while using mandelic acid, it's a sign that you may be moving too fast.

The Best Mandelic Acid Products