The floor sags six inches from one side of the dining room to the other. The walls carry so much weight from time that they lean out.
For most restaurateurs these would be issues—serious issues. But Chef Ben Spungin couldn’t be happier.
“We love the history of this property,” he says.
The historic Cooper Molera Adobe in downtown Monterey has treated him well so far. Alta Bakery & Cafe, which he opened in 2019, quickly became a favorite. And now he is set—finally—to welcome guests to the much anticipated Cella Restaurant, just across the courtyard.
A soft opening may occur the week of Jan. 24 with standout chefs Aaron Rayor and Danny Leach in the kitchen after a wait of some two and a half years.
“Finally is a great word,” Spungin says. “But with how long this has taken, the timing is perfect.”
Spungin likes that Stokes Adobe is drawing crowds around the corner. Montrio—not too far down the street—will reopen at some point. Alta is already a hit.
Cella is poised to become a destination.
Spungin and his team have designed Cella as a bit of casual elegance suited to the neighborhood. The menu will have burgers, oysters hanger steak with chimichurri, half chicken with sunchokes, salads—”we want to highlight vegetables,” he points out—bread from Alta and such.
The bar will serve a rotation of signature cocktails. And the wine list promises to be a drawing card, as well.
Elegance will come from the hands in the kitchen. Rayor made his name at Cantinetta Luca. Leach is a Folktale veteran. The setting will enhance the mood, with local art and hand crafted features.
Yet it is meant to have a neighborhood vibe. “I just want it to be approachable,” Spungin explains. “Super casual.”
The restaurant was announced several years ago. Chef Thomas Snyder was lured from Estéban in 2018 to take the helm as preparation of the space continued. But there are more snags when working with a historic site. And the pandemic hit.
But never has anticipation for Cella’s opening lagged. “Everyone wants to know the start date,” Spungin says.