Buddha’s hand makes for an unusual but sweet winter treat

What is that … thing! ... in the citrus section of our stores in the dead of winter?

It’s yellow, the color of lemons, but looks like a spooky hand with long, creepy fingers. And what can a cook possibly do with it?

It’s a form of citron called Buddha’s hand, developed more than 2,000 years ago in northeastern India from natural variations in the wild species of citron. Most wild citrons that still grow in India and China look more like lumpy lemons than a hand with long fingers. Yet they all share a secret.

Because citron is a wild species that developed over millions of years, it long pre-dates the other citrus we’re familiar with today such as oranges, lemons, grapefruit and tangerines. But it’s from this wilding that our familiar citrus fruits have derived, either by natural cross-pollination in the wild or human hybridization. In other words, the citron’s genes have exploded into the panoply of delicious citrus fruits we enjoy today.

That doesn’t mean the citron, whether the lumpy lemon-shaped fruit or the Buddha’s hand, don’t have their own special charms and uses.

A citron has very little pulp, and what there is of it is usually dry and seedy. It’s discarded, along with the thick white layer of pith around it. The useful part is the sweet and very fragrant rind. In Asia, Buddha’s hand is set out in temples to sweeten the air, and people use them at home for the same purpose. Asians also use the rind to flavor pickles, preserves and tea blends.

Here in Northern California, we don’t have as much experience with citrons, unless we’re Jewish, that is. The citron is part of the Jewish rite of Sukkoth, a Jewish harvest festival that commemorates the temporary shelters Jews used while wandering in the wilderness. Citrons will grow well in the North Bay, but they will need covering if the temperature dips to freezing or below.

Because of its concentrated flavor and heady fragrance, citron is a superior substitute for lemon peel or lemon zest. Slice the rind thinly or zest the fingers to flavor vinaigrettes, seafood salads, baked or fried fish or for sweet pastries. The sweet rind lacks the bitterness of lemon and orange peel, so it’s excellent in fruitcakes or cocktails. Think mimosas, pisco sours, margaritas, lemon drops, daiquiris and vodka tonics.

Use a cheese grater or vegetable peeler to peel the fingers of the Buddha’s hand, releasing a strong, fresh, lemony scent. Place dishes of these peelings in bathrooms and bedrooms.

While Amalfi lemons are typically used to make limoncello in Italy, Buddha’s hand citrons make even better limoncello right here at home. It’s easy.

Using a vegetable peeler, peel the rind from the fingers of four Buddha’s hand citrons and put the peelings into a quart jar. Fill the jar with a good, strong vodka (80 proof is good, 100 proof is more extractive and better) and put on the lid. Place the jar in a dark cabinet or shelf at room temperature for at least 10 days, although 30 days gives you a richer fragrance and flavor. Make a simple syrup of four cups water and four cups sugar, heated gently so the sugar dissolves. Strain the infused vodka into a large pitcher and add simple syrup a cup at a time until the sweetness level is pleasing. Remember less can be more; don’t over-sweeten.

Bottle and label the limoncello in bottles of your choice, although 8.5-ounce clear glass bottles with swing-top lids are traditional. Store in the fridge for a few months or in the freezer forever.

You’ll find this confection disappears quickly if anyone with a sweet tooth is nearby. You may want to make two or more batches and freeze the extra to eat in the warmer months. This recipe makes about 36 pieces.

Candied Buddha’s Hand Citron

Makes about 3 cups

3 cups diced Buddha’s hand fingers, cut to ½-inch lengths

2 tablespoons sea salt plus one pinch

3 cups white sugar, divided

2 cups filtered water

Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add diced Buddha's hand and the salt, return to a simmer and cook until citron softens, about 30 minutes. Drain, discarding the drained water.

Combine diced Buddha's hand, 2 ½ cups sugar, 2 cups fresh filtered water and a pinch of salt in the same pot.

Bring to a simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, until syrup reaches a temperature of 230 degrees. Remove from heat and cool to room temperature. Drain citron and reserve the excess liquid for other uses, such as making cocktails.

Spread drained citron dice on a fine-mesh wire rack (pizza screens are good) set atop a bowl for all-around air circulation and let dry until tacky, at least 24 hours. Pour remaining sugar into a shallow bowl. Toss citron dice in sugar until coated; transfer coated pieces to a large serving platter to dry for at least 2-4 hours. Store in wax paper-lined tin with a lid.