Taste-Off: The best marinated artichoke hearts (and the worst)

The heart of the artichoke is like the pearl in an oyster, the doll in an L.O.L Surprise!, the olive in a martini. It’s the coveted bite in the center of layers and layers of thick, fibrous leaves.

Artichoke leaves are fun to peel off one by one, leisurely savoring the tender flesh of the leaves as you work through to the heart. But fans of artichoke often crave a shortcut — a jar of tender, marinated artichoke hearts.

Low in calories, high in vitamins C and A, and packed with flavor, marinated artichokes are an instant flavor boost in salad, pasta, chicken and eggs — and are incredibly popular as the key ingredient in a warm party dip, which explains why many store shelves are artichoke-free at this time of year.

For the uninitiated, an artichoke is actually a flower. The leaves surround a fuzzy center, which rests on top of an edible heart. Ideally, only the young, tender hearts and small leaves that surround it go into jars of marinated artichoke hearts.

Great marinated artichoke hearts are bright and herby and have such a pleasant balance of salt and vinegar that it’s hard to resist eating them straight from the jar. They’re also meticulously prepared, including only the tender parts of the flower.

Bad artichoke hearts are over-seasoned and doused in a searing splash of harsh, throat-searing vinegar. The worst include inedible, fibrous leaves that are impossible to cut with a knife — and scratch the throat on their way down.

Here’s the scoop on the best marinated artichoke hearts on supermarket shelves and the chewy, sour ones to skip. Nutrition details refer to about 1 ounce, or two to three hearts, depending on size.

Kirkland Signature Artichoke Hearts

Fans of fresh artichokes will fall for these toothsome hearts that include a mix of quarters and halves. They deliver big artichoke flavor and a delicate hit of herbs and vinegar. 20 calories, 1.5 g fat, 75 mg sodium. $11.79 for two 33-ounce jars at Costco. (4 stars)

Trader Joe’s Marinated Grilled Artichoke Halves

Loaded with clean, fresh-roasted artichoke flavor, these extra-large hearts have long, elegant stems, making them perfect for serving as part of a relish or antipasto platter. 50 calories, 4 g fat, 210 mg sodium. $2.99 for 7.5 ounces. (4 stars)

Reese Quartered Marinated Artichoke Hearts

These bright, nearly crispy hearts are mildly seasoned and have just a touch of vinegar, which allows the artichoke flavor to shine. They’re tiny, but tasty. 15 calories, .5 mg fat, 115 mg sodium, 1 g fiber. $1.68  for 7.5 ounces at Walmart. (3½ stars)

First Street Marinated Artichoke Hearts

These long-stemmed hearts are a cut above ordinary. They have good seasoning and are tender, but slightly over-pickled. 20 calories, 1.5 g fat, 140 mg sodium. $7.29 for 32 ounces at Smart & Final. (3 stars)

Raley’s Marinated & Quartered Artichoke Hearts

These small, ordinary artichokes are cooked well and have clean flavor thanks to minimal salt and vinegar, but they taste a bit flat. 10 calories, trace amounts of fat, 115 mg sodium. $2.85 for 6.5 ounces. (2½ stars)

365 Whole Foods Marinated Artichoke Quarters

Bright, fresh artichoke flavor is a plus, but the chewy, inedible leaves on more than half the artichokes in this jar is unacceptable. 25 calories, 2 g fat, 90 mg sodium. $2.19 for 6.5 ounces. (1½ stars)

Cara Mia California Style Artichoke Hearts

These dark, olive-colored hearts are far too vinegary, peppery and oily, resulting in murky, unpleasant flavors. They’re also carelessly prepared, as they have far too many fibrous leaves. 25 calories, 2 g fat, 90 mg sodium. $3.12 for 14.75 ounces at Walmart. (1 star)

Mezzetta Marinated Artichoke Hearts

Too much of the wrong kind of herbs and spices make the artichokes in this jar taste like Italian-style pickled vegetables. They’re tender, but the artichoke flavor is all but lost. 25 calories, 2 g fat, 90 mg sodium. $5.99 for 14.5 ounces at Safeway. (½ a star)

Cento Quartered and Marinated Artichokes

Yikes, a bite of these is like taking a chug from a bottle of white vinegar. They are so wickedly sour that they’ve lost every hint of artichoke flavor. 35 calories, 3 g fat, 100 mg sodium. $4.99 for 12 ounces at Raley’s. (No stars)

Reviews are based on product samples purchased by this newspaper or provided by manufacturers. Contact Jolene Thym at timespickyeater@gmail.com. Read more Taste-off columns at www.mercurynews.com/tag/taste-off.