Crystal Wise
Texas Monthly named Goldee’s best barbecue in the state and featured the joint on their October cover.
Lane Milne assures you that, yes, you can still eat at Goldee’s Barbecue — that is, if you have some patience to spare and a bit of time to kill.
Only a couple months ago, you could breeze into the southeast Fort Worth barbecue spot, located on a bumpy backroad near Kennedale, and be in and out in less than 30 minutes.
But that was before Oct. 18, when Texas Monthly crowned the restaurant its No. 1 in the 2021 edition of its much-coveted 50 Best BBQ Joints story, practically the highest honor a Texas barbecue spot can be bestowed. It’s the equivalent of a Grammy in the ’cue world, and for the owners, it’s insurance that their barbecue business will boom indefinitely.
Crystal Wise
Since the announcement in a story that shined a light on 49 other Texas ’cue joints, including Smoke-A-Holics BBQ, Dayne’s Craft BBQ, and Panther City BBQ in Fort Worth and Hurtado Barbecue in Arlington, Goldee’s has been swamped by ’cue lovers from near and far, with some arriving as early as 4 a.m. for a chance to get a taste.
Milne, who along with buddies Jalen Heard, Nupohn Inthanousay, Jonny White, and P.J. Inthanousay owns the restaurant, chatted with Fort Worth Magazine about the restaurant’s newfound fame.
Crystal Wise
The curious and admirers alike line up as early as 4 a.m. for lunch.
Fort Worth Magazine: Does this mean I can’t eat there anymore?
Milne: Ha, yeah, you can still eat here. The line may be a little longer. But we’re figuring out ways to make it a better experience. Right now, we’re giving away free beer and water and going up and down the line with free food samples.
FWM: What’s the average wait time now?
Milne: It depends on when you get here. A lot of people are getting here before we open, like around 4:30 or 5 in the morning. So, if you get here that early, you’ve got a long wait ahead of you. We don’t open until 11. But if you get here around 11 or so, you may wind up waiting an hour or so, depending on how fast we’re able to serve people.
FWM: You’re able to serve everyone?
Milne: This is what we do: We go down the line and take people’s orders. That way, we can gauge how much food we’re going to need. If we’re not going to have enough food, then we cut the line off and tell people we won’t be able to accommodate them today.
FWM: Did you know you were going to be No. 1?
Milne: No one ever told us we were straight-up No. 1. They did a photo shoot here and a video shoot, so that tipped us off that maybe we did OK. Maybe we’d get a good mention. But nobody said, “You’re going to be No. 1.” That was a complete surprise. It still seems surreal. Every time someone gets there to eat before I get there to work, I feel humbled and honored.
FWM: Brisket, ribs, and sausage I know to get. What do I not know to get?
Milne: A lot of people will tell you to always get fatty brisket, but I think our lean is just as good. Don’t sleep on the turkey, either.
FWM: So, what’s next for Goldee’s?
Milne: Right now, we want to find ways to better manage the influx of people and create a better experience for everyone. We’re planning on building some kind of outdoor shelter so people won’t have to wait in rain and heat.
FWM: Any local barbecue-joint favorites of yours that didn’t make the list?
Milne: I love Brix BBQ in Fort Worth. Everything he does there is great. David’s Barbecue in Pantego for ribs and coleslaw. Bailey’s Barbecue downtown Fort Worth. I love the old-school places.
4645 Dick Price Road, open 11 a.m. – 3 p.m., or until food runs out, Friday – Sunday, goldeesbbq.com
