Taste-Off: The best crispy fried onions — and the ickiest

Onion fans will agree that there are few things as savory and delicious as a fried onion ring. It’s a guilty pleasure, true, but the sweet creaminess of cooked onion wrapped in crispy, salty crust is pure yum.

The issue, of course, is that making onion rings is messy, even if you have a fryer and a vat of fresh oil. The shortcut is to track down some tasty crispy fried onions in a package. Crack open the can or package and stack those oniony bits on a burger or inside a grilled cheese sandwich, crunch them on a baked potato, scatter them on soup or salad — or use them to make the ever-popular green bean casserole.

While French’s has deep roots in the category — and includes the ubiquitous casserole recipe on its label — a host of additional options, primarily store brands, have squeezed onto store shelves. Ingredients and nutrition details on these brands are nearly identical, but the contents of those packages range from tan to dark brown, large “slices” to tiny bits.

One detail to know about these crispy onions is that while they do include onions, most brands appear to be made with pureed onion mixed with oil and flour — then extruded to look a bit like sliced onions.

Great crispy fried onions are made with lots of fresh, sweet, aromatic onions. They’re fried in fresh oil until they’re deep golden brown and deliver an ultra-toasty, salty, umami punch  tasty enough to eat as a snack. Sadly, few hit that mark. The worst crispy onions are undercooked, over-salted bits of fried flour that taste more like oil than onion.

Here are details on crispy onions that will elevate everything from dip to soup, and the icky, crispy onion counterfeits. Nutrition info refers to 7 grams or about 2 tablespoons.

Trader Joe’s Gourmet Fried Onion Pieces

These super-toasted bits have bold onion flavor. They’re tiny crumbles, but they’re as crispy and tasty as a true onion ring. 45 calories, 3 g fat, 35 mg sodium. $2.99 for 6 ounces. (4 stars)

Fresh Gourmet Crispy Onions

Deep brown, sizable bits of oniony goodness push this brand to the top. The light touch of salt is an added plus. Note that these come in a “lightly salted” version that has the same sodium content. 40 calories, 3 g fat, 15 mg sodium. $2.49 for 3.5 ounces at Sprouts; available in bulk at Costco. (4 stars)

Lars Own Imported Crispy Onions

These authentic onion bits bits deliver powerful onion flavor, because they are actual bits of onion, fried golden brown. While the sulphur hit of onion is a bit much when eaten out of hand, these would be great in a cooked dish. 40 calories, 3 g fat, 35 mg sodium, 1 g protein. $3.79 for 4 ounces at Whole Foods. (3½ stars)

Great Value French Fried Onions

Even though these shreds taste more like flour than onion, they’re nicely browned and have a light, delicate crunch thanks to the use of sunflower oil. 40 calories, 3 g fat, 25 mg sodium. $2.28 for 6 ounces at Walmart. (2½ stars)

Good & Gather French Fried Onions

These large, thin pieces look very much like sliced, breaded and fried onion, but they need a bigger punch of onion flavor. 45 calories, 3.5 g fat, 25 mg sodiium. $2.49 for 6 ounces at Target. (2 stars)

French’s Crispy Fried Onions

This popular brand is disappointing. The medium size of the shreds makes them look like real onion, but they are shockingly salty, greasy and so pale that they demand oven time. 45 calories, 3.5 g fat, 60 mg sodium. $3.99 for 6 ounces at Raley’s. (1 star)

O Organics Organic French Fried Onions

Those who love all things fried might not mind the fact that these tan-colored onions taste like salted oil. They don’t even smell like onion. 40 calories, 3 g fat, 30 mg sodium, 1 g protein. $4.99 for 6 ounces at Safeway. (½ a star)

Signature Select French Fried Onions

Did anyone even taste-test these before deciding to call them crispy onions? They’re crispy, but there’s not a trace of onion flavor. 45 calories, 3.5 g fat, 40 mg sodium, 1 g protein. $3.99 for 6 ounces at Safeway. (No stars)

Sunny Select French Fried Onions

Avoid this tin of hideous onions at all costs. They taste like flour bathed in rancid oil. 45 calories, 3.5 g fat, 40 mg sodium, 1 g protein. $2.95 for 6 ounces at Food Maxx. (No stars)

Reviews are based on product samples purchased by this newspaper or provided by manufacturers. Contact Jolene Thym at timespickyeater@gmail.com. Read more Taste-off columns at www.mercurynews.com/tag/taste-off.