Winter squash a perfect match for gewürztraminer

Our Wine of the Week, Gundlach Bundschu, 2020 Sonoma Coast, Sonoma County, Dry Gewürztraminer ($25), is a dazzling Thanksgiving option. Fermented dry, with both generous fruit and a foundation of minerality, the wine engages beautifully with the classic flavors of the season. On first sip, you’ll notice ripe stone fruit, especially apricot, nectarine and peach. There are hints of ruby grapefruit, suggestions of pomelo and sparks of cool minerals like wet concrete and river rocks.

When it comes to pairing the wine, let’s cut to the chase: This wine’s soulmate is winter squash. Winter squash in a Thai green curry, provided it isn’t too spicy, is a fabulous match. But curry isn’t on most holiday tables. Think instead of winter squash risotto, gratin, soup, ravioli, roasted pumpkin stuffed with mushroom ragout and salads.

For today’s recipe, I’m suggesting a dish that is admittedly time-consuming. But it is delicious and elegant, with complex layers of flavor that engage beautifully with the wine. You can make the sauce in advance and simply reheat it before finishing the dish. You also can make the gnocchi in advance and wrap them carefully so they don’t dry out.

Pumpkin Gnocchi with Winter Squash Sauce and Walnuts

Serves 6-8

2 pounds sugar pumpkin or other winter squash, cut in half and seeded

Olive oil

1 pound russet potatoes, washed

3 tablespoons clarified butter

1 yellow onion, cut into small dice

Kosher salt

Black pepper in a mill

2 teaspoons minced fresh sage, plus small sage sprigs, for garnish

1 ½ cups homemade chicken stock or vegetable stock

1 ½ cups all-purpose flour, plus more as needed

½ cup walnut pieces, lightly toasted

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Set the squash on a baking sheet and brush the exposed flesh with a little olive oil. Use a fork to pierce the potatoes in a several places, set them alongside the squash and bake until both are very tender when pierced with a bamboo skewer. Begin to check after 35 minutes and check every 10 minutes thereafter until done.

Remove from the oven and let cool slightly.

Remove and discard the skins of the squash. Put the flesh in a bowl and mash it with a sturdy fork until smooth. Remove 1 cup for the sauce and set the rest aside (about 1 cup) for the gnocchi.

Prepare the sauce by putting the butter into a medium saute pan set over medium heat and, when it is melted, add the onion. Stir, season with a little salt, reduce the heat to very low and cook gently, stirring now and then, until the onions are very soft and beginning to caramelize, about 45 minutes or a bit longer. Do not let them brown.

When the onions are ready, stir in the 1 cup winter squash puree and the sage. Whisk in the stock, taste, correct for salt and season with several generous turns of black pepper.

Keep warm until ready to use.

Working quickly while the potatoes are still warm, break each one in half and pass through a potato ricer or food mill; discard the skins. Add the reserved squash puree to the potatoes, season with salt and pepper and mix very well.

Stir in half the flour and continue adding more until the mixture is soft and smooth but remains a bit sticky. Let rest for 10 minutes.

Fill a large pot half full with water, add 2 tablespoons of salt and bring to a boil over high heat.

Set the oven temperature to 200 degrees. Set a heat-proof platter in the oven.

To finish the gnocchi, check the dough. If it seems too sticky, mix in a bit more flour. Sprinkle flour over your work surface and rub some on the palms of your hands.

Roll the dough into ropes about as thick as your thumb. Cut each rope into ¾-inch pieces.

Next, mark the gnocchi: Hold a dinner fork sideways, with the tines parallel to the work surface. With your other hand, pick up a piece of dough and use your thumb to quickly press it into the tines; let it fall to the work surface. Continue until all gnocchi have been marked. (Don’t worry if this seems awkward at first; the goal is for each gnocchi to be marked on one side with the tines of the fork and on the other side with your thumb, so there is a slight indentation.)

To cook the gnocchi, drop about two dozen into the boiling water and watch until they rise to the top. Cook for 15 seconds more and then lift out with a slotted spoon, shaking off excess water; transfer to the platter in the oven. Continue until all gnocchi are cooked.

Carefully remove the platter of gnocchi from the oven and pour off any water that has accumulated. Spoon some of the sauce over the cooked gnocchi and turn gently so each dumpling is coated.

Working quickly, divide the gnocchi between individual soup plates and spoon some of the remaining sauce over each portion. Scatter some walnuts on top, garnish with a sage sprig and enjoy right away.

Michele Anna Jordan is the author of 24 books to date, including “The New Cook’s Tour of Sonoma.” Email her at michele@micheleannajordan.com.