Izakaya Mita has held down a corner in Chicago as reliably as any neighborhood tavern, but with far better bar food.
“We like to call our cooking Japanese soul food,” said Brian Mita, executive chef and co-owner with his mother, Helen Mita.
They just reopened their sake bar in Bucktown on Oct. 15 after a temporary pandemic closure in late June 2020. Mita and his mother started the business seven years ago.
“We did it in honor of my father, after he had passed, because it was his favorite style of dining,” Mita said.
They’ve endured extraordinary challenges, even by pandemic measures. Mita is going through cancer treatment.
“A new chemotherapy helps, but it’s made me less hands-on, just managing all the side effects, which have been pretty difficult,” he said.
That hasn’t stopped him from making big changes to the restaurant’s identity.
“We’re going back to our roots now,” he said. “It was like, do you want to be known as an izakaya or a ramen shop?”
He decidedly chose the former.
“We dropped broth ramen,” Mita said. “Back in 2014, there weren’t that many people doing it. Now there’s just ramen shops all over the place. And it’s really hard to maintain the quality that we want to do, unless we go full ramen.”
They’re still doing a lot of noodles, including one of his favorites, Tokyo abura soba ($17), inspired by a Japanese postwar poverty meal.
“The original recipe was lard, noodles and vinegar. That’s pretty much it,” he said. “And now, we add roasted garlic and a lot of pork.”
Mita has kept his signature pork belly ($10) on the menu.
“It’s braised, then we kiss it on the grill,” he said. “So that’s really nice, melt-in-your-mouth tender.”
Vegetarian regulars will be happy to find the kabocha croquettes ($9) are back, with flavors perfect for the season.
“It’s kind of like Japanese pumpkin spice,” Mita said, laughing.
In addition to the impressive Japanese sake list, you’ll find new cocktails, created by bartending team Alexander Willis and Katie Vota.
“There’s a wakamomo martini ($16) with wakamomo peaches,” Mita said. The green candied baby fruit is coveted and expensive.
A new mural can be found in the renovated space.
“We do have open windows too,” said the chef. “And our policy requires vaccination or three days of negative test results, just because it’s a sensible thing to do.”
Mita has stage 4 metastatic colorectal cancer, but he’s trying to keep his personal and professional lives separate.
“I think people who look into it know it’s pretty tough,” he said. “The thing with cancer treatment is it’s important to keep a positive mental attitude.
“That’s the most important thing,” Mita said. “And I’ve been getting by with a lot of help from my friends.”
He credits general manager Brandon Ott and chef de cuisine Wes Shephard for implementing much of his family izakaya’s changes.
You can reserve online or walk in to dine inside for dinner. Days open are changing, but will be Tuesday to Sunday. Hours are weekdays 5-9:30 p.m. and weekends 10:30 p.m.
1960 N. Damen Ave., 773-799-8677, izakayamita.com
More notable new restaurants, listed in alphabetical order:
Armitage Alehouse
Au Cheval founder Brendan Sodikoff quietly opened a new English- and Indian-inspired restaurant in Lincoln Park. Armitage Alehouse, designed as a curiously specific 1926 London pub, began service Oct. 3. The menu features so-called London curries such as including aloo chana ($18.95) with chickpeas, potato and peas. A daily pot pie selection lists pheasant and foie gras ($29.95). The classic ale list is supplemented by nonalcoholic drinks. A rose chamomile iced tea ($8) with rose petals sounds so lovely. Reserve online if you can, since seats appear scarce, or try walking in.
1000 W. Armitage Ave., 773-270-6402, armitagealehouse.com
Hot Chi Chicken & Cones
If you’ve been dreaming of a one-stop shop for both Nashville hot fried chicken and over-the-top ice cream, then you’re in luck. Hot Chi Chicken & Cones took over the former Harold’s #55 on 87th Street and the Dan Ryan in the Chatham neighborhood Oct. 2. Cedars Mediterranean Kitchen owner Basima Abdullah kicked off with a special from their sister restaurant: “Popeye’s ain’t s—” chicken sandwich ($10) with a harissa-glazed halal fried chicken thigh, whipped garlic sauce and sumac seasoned onion, served with a side of crinkle-cut fries. Their loaded black velvet cake cone ($6) tops vanilla bean ice cream with Oreos, Nutella sauce, whipped cream and chocolate cake. You can order online or in-person to dine inside or takeout.
100 W. 87th St., hot-chi.net
Million’s Crab
The unofficial mayor of Chinatown is back with another new restaurant, but this time in the Ford City neighborhood of West Lawn. Million’s Crab, an Asian-Cajun seafood mini chain just cracked open Oct. 5. You can get spicy seafood in a bag by the pound, or order the Happy Reunion ($246), made to serve six with snow crab, shrimp, mussels, clams, crawfish, fried calamari, sausage, corn, potatoes, seafood bread and six boiled eggs. You can dine inside with a full bar or order online for takeout — there’s even a drive-thru.
7519 S. Cicero Ave., 708-685-5188, cicero.millionscrab.com
Pigtail
Chef and humanitarian José Andrés continues to feed people in need around the world. Meanwhile, his team in Chicago just opened Pigtail, a modernist pork and cocktail mini bar downstairs at Jaleo in River North on Oct. 15. It’s the only, and perhaps the first, of his new speakeasy-style concept. Look for tostada de jamón con tomate ($16), “airbread” filled with tomato espuma and topped with jamón ibérico de bellota. Their Consomé cocktail ($18) mixes pork consommé with Palo Cortado sherry and Amontillado wine, floated with an egg espuma. Reservations are recommended, but walk-ins are welcome from Thursday to Sunday 5-11 p.m.
500 N. Clark St., 312-820-7771, pigtailcocktail.com
Rubi’s Tacos
Founders Maria Landa and Gilberto Ramirez named their famous Maxwell Street taco stand for their daughter Rubi when they first started serving at the market 24 years ago. Now Rubi’s Tacos has found a permanent home in Pilsen, and the family celebrated its grand opening Oct. 3. Get the elusive taco de huitlacoche ($4) while you can. Order their Guerrero-style pozole ($15 for 32 ounces) green or white, which comes with all the fixings on the side. Order online ahead for pozole on Thursdays and tacos on weekends.
1316 W. 18th St., 773-318-9526, instagram.com/rubis_18st
The Licking Chicago Express South Side
Hip-hop artist DJ Khaled still stars as the highest profile partner of The Licking based in Miami. But it’s local owner Lenny Coffey Weston who just opened his second location in Chicago. The Licking Chicago Express South Side started serving its signature soul food Oct. 16. The Grand Crossing shop offers fan favorites including the Fingalickin fried chicken wing dinner ($15.99) with two sides, of which I recommend the collard greens with mac and cheese — plus the famous Mystery Drink ($4.99). Order in person or by phone for takeout only.
8827 S. Stony Island Ave., 773-530-7522, thelicking.com
In other restaurant news:
Elizabeth Restaurant
Michelin-starred chef and award-winning author Iliana Regan officially turned over ownership of her critically acclaimed restaurant Elizabeth in Lincoln Square on Oct. 16. New owner Tim Lacey and new chef Ian Jones previously ran the closed Kitsune for Regan.
4835 N. Western Ave., 773-681-0651, elizabeth-restaurant.com
Know of a Chicago-area restaurant that’s new and notable? Email food critic Louisa Chu at lchu@chicagotribune.com.
Big screen or home stream, takeout or dine-in, Tribune writers are here to steer you toward your next great experience. Sign up for your free weekly Eat. Watch. Do. newsletter here.
