Tao RTW Spring 2022

Forgoing color, the designer relied instead on rich texture and intricate detailing to elevate a collection of easy shapes

From the spring 2022 season, Comme des Garçons opted to rebrand its Tricot line as Tao, with designer Tao Kurihara remaining at the helm. In a mini show at the company’s offices in Tokyo, the designer turned out a collection of loose-fitting dresses in white and black.

The look: Kurihara offset the easy, A-line silhouettes and long lengths with layers of tulle, cascading ruffles and puff sleeves for added volume. The textiles used monotone shades of white or black, but texture was added via tonal embroidery, jacquards and subtle prints on sheer chiffon.

Standout pieces: A cropped shirt and shin-length skirt constructed with tight rows of pleats was dressed down with a simple white T-shirt and flat shoes, while an all-black ensemble consisting of a wrap short-sleeved knit top and asymmetric ruffled skirt was anything but simple.

Takeaway: The collection was a study in creating depth and movement while forgoing the use of color. The voluminous shapes, intricate details and rich textiles proved that flashy hues are far from necessary when it comes to eye-catching silhouettes made from expertly cut patterns.

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