Marques’Almeida is a brand that’s known for doing things its own way, whether it’s casting its cult following of M’A girls, rather than traditional models for its buzzy catwalk shows, or taking itself out of the fashion month cycle altogether, and launching a magazine instead.
Marta Marques and Paolo Almeida’s spring/summer 2022 show, held in their hometown of Porto, is yet another example of how the pair are carving out their own path in fashion, with the husband-and-wife duo deciding to work closely with six artists and designers in the city this season.
“During the pandemic, we came home [to Porto] and started reconnecting with artists and designers here,” Marques, who previously lived in London for nearly 15 years, tells Vogue via Zoom. “We started [to realise] there are a lot more young people willing to stay here and work as a community, producing really incredible work not just in fashion but artists, designers and sculptors.”
The move back to Porto has made the pair think about the direction of the brand going forward. “When we were [working on] the show, we were thinking ‘What does it really mean to be here? What do we want our next 10 years to be?’,” Marques continues. “This idea of supporting the younger generation, doing what we can to lift them up, to give them a platform is going to be a big priority for the future. So what better way to start than in our hometown with the people that are where we were 10 or 15 years ago?”
It’s a similar proposition to Gucci Vault, which is showcasing the work of 13 emerging designers – but, as is typical with Marques’Almeida, comes with a twist. Rather than simply showing the work of the six creatives, they decided to incorporate the pieces into their own collection, making it a truly collaborative process.
“It felt really fresh and exciting to see designers combined in one look,” Marques explains. “We wanted to show [their designs] in the way they wanted them to be shown, so we had to listen to their stories and understand their mindsets. And it really enriched us as designers; it ended up being a learning experience for us.”
The young creatives featured include Mana Terra, whose patchwork bags are made from deadstock (including leftover materials from Marques’Almeida); Nani Campos, whose colourful knits are made from discarded jersey materials; and Rebeca Letras, whose sculptural pieces are made from discarded chains. Then there’s Arieiv, whose vibrant gender-fluid pieces featured in the show; T.I.L.O, which highlights the practice of visible mending; and Marcelo Almiscarado, who supports local artisans while subverting traditional dress codes.
Sustainability is central to Marques’Almeida’s approach, as is evident with the choice of designers and artists they’ve worked with this season. The brand launched its reM’Ade collection last summer, featuring one-off pieces made from upcycled fabrics, as well as publishing a manifesto that details its social and environmental commitments.
This season, Marques’Almeida has used no virgin synthetic materials (point one of the manifesto), as well as using certified organic materials (as stated in point two). The Re’Made Foundation, which aims to support local craftsmanship, is another key focus for the brand, while its resale section, M’A Pre-Owned, is also set to expand moving forward. Meanwhile, its magazine, See-Through, is designed to promote diverse voices in fashion, from craftspeople to photographers and stylists.
A clear sense of purpose can be found in everything that the brand does, whether that’s promoting environmental sustainability or championing community. “If the next 10 years of our business could be about the Foundation, about Re’Made, about pre-owned, about these initiatives – that’s what’s exciting,” Marques concludes.
