LDNReview
Included In
The first thing we ask of a restaurant is that they feed us really good food. The second is that they make us look cool. If you are currently judging us, please know that we are far too old to learn how to play an electric guitar and consider illegally streaming Succession to be the height of naughtiness. Bless our hearts, sometimes we need restaurants to do the hard work for us and in the case of Temaki, they have really done us a solid on the cool scales. Oh, and it also really doesn’t hurt that they’ve absolutely mastered the handroll.
So, here’s how your visit is going to go. You’ll rock up at Brixton’s Market Row with a best mate or that person you’re dating who hasn’t yet figured out that the tattoo in your dating profile was definitely the temporary kind. You’ll pass by tiny buzzing restaurants and those rammed fabric shops that give you a brief fleeting confidence that you could upholster that Ikea chair if you tried really, really hard, before arriving at Temaki’s door. You’ll clock the simple ceramic plates, the sleek bare walls, and see people perched at a light wooden wrap-around counter, one diner tucking into a perfect otoro-topped roll as their companion patiently watches puppy dog style as the chef makes theirs. Muster up a very calm smile - cool, totally cool mate - and get ready to load up on rich lobster, crunchy tempura numbers, and yuzu negronis for a meal that’s as cool and easy as chucking on a leather jacket.
photo credit: Charlie McKay
It’s worth noting that Temaki doesn’t exclusively serve, well, temaki. There are a few other things on the menu like some zesty yellowtail sashimi, monkfish karaage, and a cosy hug in the form of their excellent miso soup. But coming to Temaki and filling up on the small plates is like going to Burger King and ordering a salad or asking your dental hygienist for a wax. Trust us, that doesn’t end up well for anyone involved. No, you’re here for the truly excellent handrolls and for the casual price of 30 quid you can try the set menu involving akami tuna, crab, salmon, otoro, prawn tempura, and BBQ eel rolls without even having to do any draining arithmetics. All of the above are quality rolls but your favourite will be the absolute banger that is the BBQ eel temaki. Don’t like eel? Feel conflicted about anything related to a grill after that time you got feral with some BBQ sauce in your bed? Whatever. You’ll still love this tender fishy smoke show. It’s just that good.
photo credit: Charlie McKay
The only thing about Temaki that doesn’t always hit bang on the cool mark - look, we’re sure even Zendaya has off days - is the service. It’s quick and entertaining for anyone who has considered paying for a sushi lesson, but we had a couple experiences that teetered into what we’re going to call ‘too interactive’. Sometimes you need a little privacy when you want to discuss important things like whether MI5 will track you down for your illegal Succession habit. But honestly, that really is the only thing here that might detract from a standout affordable meal that is less swagger and more a confident smile. The sake list is great, that BBQ eel temaki is undeniably memorable, and if your visit goes anything like our third trip here, you’ll spot a cast member of Sex Education and get so excited that you drop seaweed on yourself. See, we said we aren’t cool.
Food Rundown
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
Miso Soup
Every time we’ve come here we haven’t planned on ordering the miso soup, but we are only human and we get cold you see. If the part of you that is in a codependent relationship with your hot water bottle wants to order it, go right ahead. Bonus points to Temaki for the great tofu lurking at the bottom of the bowl.
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
Yellowtail Sashimi
Out of all of the small plates at Temaki, the yellowtail sashimi is our favourite. Consider it the ultimate fishy warm-up act, that just so happens to be cold. The chaos of life once again thrives.
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
Akami Tuna Temaki
Flawless. Also, it’s worth noting that we very rarely even use the word flawless since 2014 Beyoncé did us dirty and we abandoned every other word in the English language for at least six months. But we’ll make an exception for this oh-so simple but quality roll.
Salmon Temaki
See above. Simplicity done right.
photo credit: Charlie McKay
‘Surprise Me’
If you’re feeling feisty, you can opt for the ‘surprise me’ roll. Spoiler: the surprise is some caviar, but as people who once received a toilet brush as a birthday present, we stand by the fact that this roll is a pretty good surprise.
photo credit: Heidi Lauth Beasley
BBQ Eel Temaki
Chances are that the servers at Temaki will tell you to order the BBQ eel roll. We’re here to tell you that you should absolutely listen to them. A wildly smoky, fishy mouthful that just makes total sense. A strong contender for our favourite handroll in London.
Prawn Tempura Temaki
As certified tempura fans, it breaks our little hearts to say that the tempura temaki is just not as good as the other offerings here. ‘But what about your adoration for crunch and texture Infatuation’, we hear you cry. Yes, the tempura hand rolls are still good but you lose some of that raw fish glory in the fried numbers. Sorry.