9 Ways to Stop a Zit From Forming, According to Derms

Keep Your Skin Clean

If you feel a pimple coming on, the last thing you want to do is give it reason to fester any further. With that in mind, board-certified dermatologist Tina Alster, MD, says to keep your skin as clean as possible when trying to halt a zit in its path. 

“Not only will this tip help to prevent those breakouts, it will also reduce the duration and severity of a breakout episode,” she explains. “So, if you feel a zit forming, you will want to make sure you are properly cleansing your skin. Remember, it's never too late to start!” With that in mind, she recommends using a cleanser formulated with glycolic, salicylic, and/or lactic acids (like Cetaphil’s Gentle Clear Clarifying Acne Cream Cleanser, $10), which she says will not only help to clean the skin but also keep pores clear of cellular debris.

Don't Pick

Just in case you aren’t fully convinced not to try your hand at popping, board-certified dermatologist Michele Green, MD, has a word of warning.  “Popping a pimple is never a good idea, but even less so when the pimple has not yet come to a head,” she explains. “Because the pimple does not have a channel connecting it directly to the surface of the skin, the sebum, dead skin cells, and debris trapped inside the skin cannot be successfully extracted yet.” As a result, picking and attempting to pop can force that debris to swell under the surface, which can potentially lead to an infection, not to mention permanent scarring. So, again, hands off!

Refrain From Touching Your Face

It’s not just about trying to avoid popping a pimple—it’s about not touching your face at all, even when it's all pain and no pimple just yet. After all, even with hand sanitizer almost always in reach these days, bacteria still lives on your fingers and hands, and touching your face is the quickest way to accidentally transfer it. That means you'll not only increase the risk of making the spot much more red and angry, you could also contribute to the formation of additional breakouts.

Control the Temperature

Cystic zits are known for their throbbing, swollen nature—even when there’s no head in sight. And it’s because of those uncomfortable side effects that folks try to take matters into their own hands by popping. Instead, Green recommends applying a warm compress, which can encourage pores to open up and relieve some of the pressure. If you prefer cold temperatures, though, Alster says that applying ice can also help to relieve pain and irritation associated with angry, under-the-surface acne.

Balance Oil With Oil

Now this might sound counter-intuitive, but board-certified dermatologist Dendy Engelman, MD, says that applying a facial oil to the inflamed area can actually help soothe the spot. "I recommend incorporating it into your regular skincare routine to improve skin tone over time, but it also works great for spot treating,” she explains.

Reach for a Spot Treatment

Speaking of treating the area, there are a number of spot treatments that can help with under-the-surface bumps. “Putting an acne spot treatment on the area where you can feel a pimple beginning to form is a great way to get ahead of an acne lesion before it comes to a head,” Green says, noting that for her acne-prone patients, she often suggests her own MGSkinLabs Acne Spot Treatment ($45), which is formulated with 5% benzoyl peroxide to manage any blemishes before a breakout gets out of control.

“Zit Stopper, from my brand The A Method by Tina Alster, M.D., contains several key ingredients that will combat stubborn acne at the root,” Alster shares. “Formulated with adapalene—previously available by prescription only—Zit Stopper does exactly as the name says: It stops zits from forming under the skin. Adapalene will help promote cell turnover, thus preventing pores from clogging. The hydrocortisone ingredient will provide anti-inflammatory benefits to reduce the appearance of redness and swelling around the blemishes. And, adding in glycerin and hyaluronic acid helps ensure that the skin stays hydrated, soft, and smooth.”

Engelman also recommends a benzoyl peroxide–based spot treatment. “Humane Acne Spot Treatment Gel is an awesome, quick solution when you notice a pimple starting to form,” she says. “This clear gel penetrates deeply into the skin, killing acne-causing bacteria with benzoyl peroxide and calming redness with antioxidant-rich botanicals.”

Add Retinol to Your Routine

Remember: Adapalene is a vitamin A derivative that can treat acne. Retinol is also a vitamin A derivative and one of Alster’s top picks for preventing zits from becoming fully formed. “Retinol will help to increase the cell turnover rate,” she explains. “This, in turn, will help rid your skin of the dead cells that could be responsible for clogging pores.” 

Cover With Patches

“Pimple patches are an excellent way to stop pimples in their tracks and heal them overnight,” explains Engelman. “I recommend ZitSticka™, which packs its patches with ingredients like salicylic acid and niacinamide to quickly clear pores and soothe redness. I also like that they offer different patches designed to target different types of pimples; the Killa™ Kit is perfect for early-stage and deeper zits, and includes self-dissolving patches as well as pre-soaked towelettes to help pimples fade fast.” And, not only are they functional, but they're fashionable, too. Any flick through social media will show a trending celeb sporting their favorite pimple-patch print.

Seek Professional Help

Even with all the prevention in the world, some people will still experience drawn-out cystic acne timelines. If you have frequent, painful "blind breakouts" or a nodule or cyst that won't go away, Alster says that a trip to your dermatologist can help. “A cortisone injection may be helpful, or your dermatologist could set you up on a more individualized treatment plan,” she says.