Atlein RTW Spring 2022

Courtesy of Atlein

Antonin Tron set parts of his film in the little-known mineral gallery in the basement of the Sorbonne — where he studied literature before heading into fashion. He showcased his creations against the geometric glass display cases filled with rocks, crystals and meteorites in a rainbow of colors.

The look: The organic forms and their vivid colors provided a new energy for Tron’s designs, worked with mineral motifs made with precision tie-dyeing. Form-wise, he remained true to his aesthetic, creating his slinky yet sporty draped and color-blocked looks from crêpe-like Seaqual fabrics made from ocean waste. Looks from previous collections also got the upcycling treatment, bleached and over-dyed to create new patterns.

Quote of note: “I wanted a sense of chaos in the collection, which is new to Atlein,” Tron said.

Key pieces: On a cocoon-like dress with its gathered neckline and matching leggings, the crystal-like motifs appeared to glitter from the depths of the earth. On a selection of T-shirts and tank tops, paired with corsets made from upcycled wetsuits or with lace-edged satin slips in contrasting shades, the motifs were more graphic, less literal, and the contrasts attested to the sense of disorder the designer sought. Tron’s signature silhouettes, meanwhile, popped with the jewel-like tones or radiated with moody intensity in black or navy.

Takeaway: Tron, for whom sustainable design is a cornerstone, offered up a commentary on fashion of sorts. “These things of great beauty [the minerals and crystals] took millions of years to create, and fashion is the opposite,” he said.