Àcheval RTW Spring 2022

Courtesy of Acheval Pampa

Sofia Achaval de Montaigu and Lucila Sperber spelled out a love letter to Argentinian football legend Diego Maradona, who passed away in 2020, in a collection that explores once more the sartorial codes of their homeland. Traditional horseback riding outfits and the national passion for soccer are distilled into a tomboy-grown-up wardrobe shot in the city of Buenos Aires. The pair is also launching the label’s first perfume, a spicy-amber concoction meant to smell like a ride through the pampa and created in collaboration with French independent perfume house Bon Parfumeur.

The look: “Real Gauchos of Argentina,” by which the pair mean juxtaposing elements taken from the traditional horse rider and countryside lifestyle with, say, a souvenir T-shirt from Maradona’s younger years at the Boca Junior sports club, for a realistic and globally relatable take on Argentinian heritage.

Quote of note: “It’s about breaking the image of an equestrian lifestyle as something for the elites, because in Argentina, many people ride to work. Even kids go to school on horseback. [Riding a horse] is as common as cycling,” said Sperber.

Standout pieces: A hooded trenchcoat with patch pockets and golden buttons; a backless dress inspired by an apron worn by Sperber’s grandmother; trousers that can unzip at the knee, like those used for hiking; a short A-line cotton poplin and lace dress, and a simple but effective tiered maxidress. Soccer aficionados may want to pick up one of the T-shirts embroidered with the number 10, as a subtle nod to Maradona’s player position, in colorways nodding to his jerseys.

Takeaway: Like most this season, the Àcheval duo have dug into their own identities and functionality as a form of elegance. Their take was made all the more charming by being manufactured with partners empowering women in local communities in Argentina.