Etro RTW Spring 2022

Giovanni Giannoni/WWD

Veronica Etro wants to “celebrate nature, positivity and love with an explosion of colors,” marking the post-pandemic “awakening and rebirth.”

And celebrate she did, for spring presenting bold and vivid floral patterns that she defined “out of scale,” as well as more faithful reproductions mixed with the brand’s signature paisley print. Indeed, she said backstage that “in full bloom” were the words that first sparked the collection in her mind.

While she did not stray far from her inner bohemian self and a ‘70s vibe, seen for example in the bell-bottomed, raw-edge denim pants jazzed up with optical and sequined patterns, the designer said she was looking more for a ‘90s look, “getting rid of the frills,” seeking ease and functionality. This was best exemplified by the long shirts worn over leggings in allover prints or the drawstring denim pants and comfortable shirtdresses.

The  industrial space in Milan where the show was staged — a new venue for the brand — was meant to underscore the restraint Etro professed in designing the collection. And while she did offer some palate-cleansing monochromatic looks — as in an eye-catching pantsuit in a golden hue — clearly she had fun indulging her nature. Minimalist she is not, so she mixed and matched patterns for looks that weren’t meant to be clearly defined for either daywear or eveningwear, and enjoyed embroidering platform shoes and supersizing earrings and bracelets. The paisley prints were also paired with mandala symbols.

“Life is so serious, there must be a dose of playfulness,” she said. Amen.