Jil Sander RTW Spring 2022

Giovanni Giannoni/WWD

An energetic tension between opposites defined the overall concept behind Jil Sander’s spring 2022 collection, which marked the brand’s return to physical shows. The show was held in a sort of tunnel-like indoor space, long and narrow, that was covered with lilac carpeting and illuminated with a delicate light in the same palette. The vibe felt cocooning and relaxing.

As they told WWD during a meeting, the company’s showroom a few days ahead of their show, Lucie and Luke Meier conceived the lineup with their minds projected forward, looking at the future with optimism.

Fashion-wise, that resulted in a multifaceted wardrobe that felt both chic and eclectic. It opened with a group of tailored outfits, including roomy, sharply cut blazers in lovely shades of pink, peach and mint green, then veered toward a more quintessential femininity. Shirts were decorated with eye-catching scarf collars, tops featured draped motifs and jewelry-like details, and a touch of wild playfulness was introduced via a coat splashed with a tiger pattern and embellished with tassels.

Playing with textures, the designers juxtaposed the fluidity of elegant silk dresses with the fur-like effect of a knitted set in a charming pink shade. Stripes added a summery vibe to a silk set worn with a coordinated fringed scarf and elongated polo shirts with a slightly retro vibe featured graphic patterns.

As a counterpoint to the tailoring, the show closed with the Meiers’ interpretation of glamour with a range of voluminous organza gowns embroidered with maxi paisley motifs and punctuated with shimmering sequins. The designers tempered the sweet, romantic vibe by layering them over dyed jeans with fringed hems.

The Meiers seemed to step out of their comfort zone this season to add a new fun, cool and sometimes flamboyant layer to their otherwise precise elegance, all in new vibrant shades. After all, who doesn’t want to think of a brighter future?