Quirky downtown Syracuse diner opens new location in northern suburbs

The new Modern Malt at 7785 Frontage Road in Cicero opens Sept. 22. Brandi Maynes photo
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Cicero, N.Y. — Modern Malt, the quirky Armory Square diner that combines all day breakfast with all day cocktails, is opening its second location this week in Cicero.

The new Modern Malt opens today at 7785 Frontage Road, in spot once occupied by a Cici’s Pizza.

It will be open from 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. Wednesdays to Sundays. And yes, there will be brunch.

The menu offers a slight twist on the downtown location, said Robb Bidwell, who is a partner in both locations with Doug Balle. Notably, the Cicero location adds more dessert options, he said.

The decor is similar: Mid-20th century modern with a soft blue and orange color scheme. The dining area is about double that of downtown, with seating for about 150 compared to 75 in Armory Square, Bidwell said.

The original Modern Malt opened at 325 S. Clinton St. in February 2015. It quickly gained attention for dishes like the Barney Rubble (Fruity Pebbles-crusted French Toast) and the Elvis B-side (bacon, banana and peanut butter pancakes). It also offers variations of poutine, plus burgers sandwiches and more.

The drink menu ranges from milkshakes to cocktails, including popular brunch favorites like Bloody Marys and Mimosas. The Cicero location will do more with ice creams and sundaes, Bidwell said.

Both locations feature a sign over the bar that says “Milkshakes and Whiskey.”

The vibe at the Modern Malt in Armory Square has evolved over the years, and that continues in Cicero, Bidwell said. The suburban location will be more family friendly, a change that has also happened to some extent downtown.

“We are a kid place,” Bidwell said. “We didn’t see that when we opened at first. Back then we were looking at more of a college crowd. But over time, we’ve found that younger kids really like it.”

In recognition of that, the first 200 kids coming into the Cicero location will receive a free Modern Malt T-shirt, he said.

The Modern Malt team, which includes general manager Trey Alvarez and managers Katie Becket and Brandi Maynes, began working on the Cicero location just before the Covid pandemic hit in March 2020.

That created a delay, and now they’re opening amid the dining industry’s ongoing struggles with staff and supplies.

“It’s been tough the last year or so,” Bidwell said. “But we’ve got a good crew and we’re ready to go.”

Don Cazentre writes for NYup.com, syracuse.com and The Post-Standard. Reach him at dcazentre@nyup.com, or follow him at NYup.com, on Twitter or Facebook.

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