It would be impossible to have internet access and not know who Harris Reed is. The British-American designer, who graduated from Central Saint Martins last year, had already begun to make a name for himself throughout the duration of his studies, and has fast become the rising star of a new generation.
The 25-year-old creative’s signature voluminous demi-couture creations have won him clients, including Harry Styles, Solange Knowles and Iman, who he dressed for the Met Gala. GQ’s Breakthrough Designer, who cut his teeth at Gucci and has walked in the brand’s shows, also has collaborations with MAC and Missoma under his belt.
At the centre of everything Reed does is gender fluidity. “It’s always been about fighting for the beauty of fluidity and that hasn’t changed,” he tells Vogue ahead of his spring/summer 2022 show. “The identity, though, is definitely shifting – as it develops, it’s getting more romantic, elegant and elevated.”
The spring/summer 2022 collection saw the designer take his brand ethos and trademark aesthetic to new heights via a collaboration with Oxfam, which saw him upcycle the British charity’s extensive second-hand bridal stock: “There’s nothing more rigid in the binary system than the black-and-white wedding, so I felt it was perfect to turn the pieces into unique, fluid hybrid clothing,” he explains. “Of course, I paid for the dresses and suits, as it all goes to charity.”
Vogue caught up with the young designer on his career so far, that remarkable moment at the Met Gala, and why he believes demi-couture is the future of fashion.
Hi Harris! Let’s go back to the beginning – where does your love of fashion come from?
“It started with dressing up in Halloween costumes, as well as my mum’s clothes and lingerie. I didn’t have a lot of friends in my former years, so I had a lot of time by myself to play dress up.”
What did you learn from your time at CSM?
“I went there thinking that fashion was this red carpet, Hollywood world, but I learned fast that it’s deeper than that, and that creative freedom was the core of everything great. It’s also the community that you get to be part of – I found who I really was because I was surrounded by people that deeply inspired me.”
You have relationships with incredible people like Alessandro Michele of Gucci, the stylist Harry Lambert and Harry Styles, what do they each mean to you?
“Harry Lambert was the first to validate my work when people were saying it was too much like costume and it pushed me to keep going. The exposure from Harry Styles as my first client – which is insane when I say it out loud – showed me that there could be commercial value in what I was doing. Working with Alessandro gave the validity that I can have a business and it can be gender-fluid clothing.”
People seem to really open up to you about their experiences in the comments on your Instagram page; how does it make you feel?
“It makes me feel like I’m doing something right and proud to be able to give them a safe space to express themselves, because I know how overwhelming it can be from personal experience.”
The Met Gala was an incredible moment for you. How was working with Iman and what’s the story behind the look?
“It’s funny because most of my moodboard is Iman and David Bowie! Iman is the most gracious, gorgeous woman I have ever worked with; it was insane to be dressing her. She said this was her last Met, and I’m honoured to have dressed her for it.
The design was about taking fluidity to the most opulent and over-the-top place. The references were from what was happening at Speakeasy bars during the prohibition times, as it was a safe space for queers and African Americans to express themselves.”
How did your new collaboration with Oxfam come about?
“It would be a lie if I said we were totally sustainable, but I’m interested in how we can make sustainability more luxurious. During the pandemic, I was online shopping on Oxfam a lot and noticed they had the biggest, most amazing bridal section. I contacted them and they decided to partner with me.”
Explain the significance of demi-couture and why you’ve chosen to produce fashion in this way?
“Demi-couture allows me to keep the artistry, as well as the ability to create delicate things. Also, I work with a lot of young queer people and we’re all still kind of learning, so I love the idea of ‘demi’ because it’s like, almost there, but not quite yet. It feels more authentic this way, it’s the future.”
Aside from work, what have you enjoyed the most this year?
“Sticking to my guns with work and blocking out industry pressures has allowed me to have more time to myself. I’ve fallen in love with someone, too, and I’ve opened myself up in ways I never thought I would. It’s been great to separate the persona of Harris Reed and the real me, and just enjoy the relationships with people that matter.”
